damn it

whiteboy · Post by **whiteboy** » Tue Mar 20, 2007 7:21 pm

no i couldnt find anything on the amps. someone on here found them on ebay, made by a company called fish or shark or something, but it didnt give any details.

the speakers arent hooked up to an amp theyre run directly off the head unit, theyre loud enough i didnt bother running the amp to them.

the boxes are give or take a little

17 across the top

26 across the bottem

22 on the slanted front

16 on the verticle rear

i have them sitting on there side

and i foudn my owner manuals for the speakers, the 18s are an xl model (thanks cargodz)

the speakers are all ma audio

model number (with factory description):

hk52 in the rear

70w rms
140w max
kapton voice coil for highest power handeling
strontium magnet for optimum performance
360 swivel mount silk dome tweeter
nica cone for clean sound reproduction
4 ohm impedance
sensitivity:90.1db @ 1w/1m
frequency responce:60 Hz-22kHz
mounting depth:2.5"

hk69 in the doors

150w rms
300w max
kapton voice coil for highest power handeling
strontium magnet for optimum performance
360 swivel mount silk dome tweeter
mica cone for clean sound reproduction
4ohm impedance
sensitivity: 90.2db @ 1w/1m
frequency responce:30 Hz - 22 kHz
mounting depth 3.5"

180xl

im tired of typing and im sure u dont care all the shit about thermo cooling motor structure and all that so heres what i think ur interested in

Fo (Hz)-30.33
qms -5.18
qes-.74
qts-.65
vas-128.93
revc-1.6
spl@ 1 watt/1meter (db)-88.71
x-max linear peak-peak(mm) -30
levc @ 1kHz(mH) - 1.20
rms power-550w
max power-1100w

whiteboy · Post by **whiteboy** » Tue Mar 20, 2007 7:29 pm

i dunno why it posted twice? and i just realised i prolly could have got all that info off the internet instead of reading the owners amnual and typing it...

whiteboy · Post by **whiteboy** » Tue Mar 20, 2007 7:37 pm

it also give information on building ur box in the owners manual

heres what it says

sealed:

minimum cubic feet-1.75
fill required (%)-no
3db down point (-3dbHz)-42
maximum cubic feet-2.5
fill required(%)-no
3db down point(-3dHz)-38

ported:

vented(cubic feet)-5
vented to (hz)-32
3db down point (-3db Hz)-27
port diameter(")-4
port legnth(")-16
number of ports-3
port area(sq./in.)-37
portlength(")-16

Fishy · Post by **Fishy** » Tue Mar 20, 2007 8:21 pm

whiteboy wrote:i dunno why it posted twice? and i just realised i prolly could have got all that info off the internet instead of reading the owners amnual and typing it...

Lol, yeah. You coulda just posted a couple links, but I appreciate the effort.

What I'm mainly interested in is how much power(continuous) you're providing the 18's. You got a spec sheet on those amps? and which channel(s) are you using to drive the subs?

Oh and that may not be the best amp in the world, but its got 6 channels. Try using them. Your components may actually sound a lot better. Then again......... :P

Gotta do a couple things then I'll try and figure out those boxes of yours, hehe.

whiteboy · Post by **whiteboy** » Tue Mar 20, 2007 8:52 pm

yeah the mps came with nuthing..

im running the (suposably) 1500 watt sub channel only on each of them

i hooked up a few diferent amps, and the 700 watt at 4 ohm alpine is about equal to the amps im running

whiteboy · Post by **whiteboy** » Tue Mar 20, 2007 8:55 pm

if i ran multiple channels to the subs would it work? there is no switch ont he to focus set it as a 2/3/6 channel like alot of amps have.

so if i run wires off of say the 1500 watt channel and 1 of 600 watt channels would it actually give the sub that aditional supossed 600 watts?

Fishy · Post by **Fishy** » Tue Mar 20, 2007 9:56 pm

whiteboy wrote:if i ran multiple channels to the subs would it work? there is no switch ont he to focus set it as a 2/3/6 channel like alot of amps have.
so if i run wires off of say the 1500 watt channel and 1 of 600 watt channels would it actually give the sub that aditional supossed 600 watts?

Ummmm....... to put things bluntly, dayum, didn't want to say this, but those amps are probably GARBAGE. They definitely don't fit your application. Think about it. You're trying to use 12 CHANNELS to drive TWO subs! Sell em and buy one good sub amp. Seems you don't care much how your highs sound so don't even bother with an amp for them.

First things first though. Those subs aren't bad, but they HAVE to be in the right enclosure. Thats what you should concentrate on now. If you don't have the money, try adding some polyfill(pillow stuffing). It might help a little. You can find it at Walmart in the Arts and Crafts section.

I'm sorry. I don't mean to be busting on your equipment. In the right enclosure those subs could sound OK off the amp(s) you have. Just don't expect 1600 watts. I'm guessing more like 100 at the most.

Word to the wise. You get what you pay for..... if your lucky and don't order things from England.

Fishy · Post by **Fishy** » Tue Mar 20, 2007 10:21 pm

whiteboy wrote: the boxes are give or take a little
17 across the top
26 across the bottem
22 on the slanted front
16 on the verticle rear
i have them sitting on there side

I'm sorry, but that doesn't make any sense. You may to have to draw me a picture in paint or something.

Again this is what I need:

With the box laying on its longest dimension with the driver cutout facing you

1) width and height of the slanted front

2) bottom length from the slanted front to the rear (longest dimension)

3) top length from the the slanted front to the rear

cargodz · Post by **cargodz** » Wed Mar 21, 2007 12:18 am

I know that the manual may say that the minimum per sub sealed can be as little as 1.75 cu. ft. each, but I can also tell you from experience on the XL subs that they prefer a lot of space and they just don't carry as well in an enclosure that small... I've personally done quite a few of these XLs in 12" and even those don't sound that great in smallest applications recommended... I'll see if I can't work out some proper dimensions for you to use those subs in later when I've got some more time.

Fishy · Post by **Fishy** » Wed Mar 21, 2007 1:02 am

Hey, if you can't find anyone to buy those amps I'd be willing swap a Soundstream Rubicon 300-2 for them:

http://www.b15sentra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=126984

Its basically the same amp as the Rubicon 302 just with a slightly different heat sink and no Xover SIPS:

http://www.soundstream.com/manuals/AMP/ ... 202302.pdf

Don't let the specs fool you. I can just about guarantee it'll blow away what you've got there and should provide ~300 watts continuous bridged into either 2 or 4 ohms. I bought it for $120 NIB for a friend about 3 years ago. To make a long story short we never installed the thing in his ride, but I did hook it up to my subs(10w3's):

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_im ... 5_full.jpg

my midbass drivers(6w0's):

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_im ... 1_full.jpg

and my components(MB Quart Q's):

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_im ... 5_full.jpg

just to see how it sounded.

It did quite well on all three. I was particularly surprised on how it powered the 10w3's. I know you think 300 watts ain't enough, but if you do decide to build a bigger enclosure for the "18's" and you get this guy I think you'll be surprised as well. In addition when you aquire a serious sub amp for them later the 300-2 would make a great amp for your front stage. It did a good job on the Quarts. Not quite as much detail as what was had with 180 watts/channel of Xtant power, but plenty loud nonetheless. A true 1000 watt monoblock will make your subs go and you're going to need something powering your highs that has half a chance of providing enough power for them to keep up. H/U power just doesn't do it. Eventually you'll find this out on your own, hehe.

All right. Just a thought. You're in a bad situation and this amp is just sitting in my closet doing nothing. He needs a home. :)