Building a Front stage from scratch

Jonathan · Post by **Jonathan** » Thu Feb 15, 2007 5:40 pm

Note: I'm about to do a writeup on 3 ways

Patience

subster87 · Post by **subster87** » Thu Feb 15, 2007 6:06 pm

lol ok well that will help with two way now bring on the 3 way!! lol great tutorial though!! makes choosing locations a tid bit harder lol

Post by **GlassWolf** » Fri Feb 16, 2007 5:13 pm

subster, my best advice to you is this:
keep it as absolutely simple as possible.
the more you complicate things, the more likely you are to muff it all up.

head unit -> electronic DSP for XO, EQ, time alignment, etc -> amplifiers -> speakers.
all ya need, just like that. pretty much the same way I'm laying out my present car.

pioneer P9 combo, amplifiers, 3-way separates, sub.

solacedagony · Post by **solacedagony** » Sat Feb 17, 2007 9:46 am

Yea, I think that's what I was trying to say, in a bass ackwards way.

subster87 · Post by **subster87** » Sat Feb 17, 2007 11:27 am

ok i think i found how im going to do it very simple the audio control crossover its a 6 channel 3 way crossover. Sub crossed on its own.. Crossover to my amplifiers then straight to the speakers. Once i learn some more about proper equilization and not just moving frequencys around ill purchase an eq either the alpine, fosgate, or audio control but till then i want things simple. And thats as simple as i can get it without building crossovers. And here is what was recommended and i selected for my speakers im very opinion to change and opinion so comments welcome.

The peerless SLS 8inch midbass. I cant find an rms on it so if someone knows it or does find it please post it...

SEAS MCA15RCY (H1262) 5.5 inch for my mids In a q form kick panel along with the vifa xt25 tweeter. Only phalange tweeter that i could find to fit easily in a qform.

And the q forms are 150 for the pair im going qform for simplicity. If i take the time to make my own kicks alot can go wrong and it would be a while before i could start them have to wait for a weather break.

solacedagony · Post by **solacedagony** » Sat Feb 17, 2007 12:28 pm

The more power you can put on the midbasses the better. It's probably going to be more of an issue with maxing out the suspension depending on crossover point.

Jonathan · Post by **Jonathan** » Sat Feb 17, 2007 1:03 pm

Don't know if I wouldn't hold off on the 8" and wait for this one to come out:

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/jlaudio_pages.php?page_id=215

If you remember the 8IB4s they used to make, and consider the advances they've made since then, it would seem a no brainer considering the lack of dedicated 8" car midbasses.

subster87 · Post by **subster87** » Sat Feb 17, 2007 1:12 pm

well its gona take me a little while to really get everything bought ill buy midbass last and we can go back over it... thanks guys

Jonathan · Post by **Jonathan** » Sat Feb 17, 2007 1:14 pm

I'll get to the rest later, got some stuff to take care of today. No finishing the tutorial today unfortunately.

subster87 · Post by **subster87** » Sat Feb 17, 2007 4:39 pm

solacedagony wrote:The more power you can put on the midbasses the better. It's probably going to be more of an issue with maxing out the suspension depending on crossover point.

I was looking into the crossover point i didnt know exactly where to go with it, i was thinking if i was going to let the midbass play to all the when down in the bass department id have to cross it at what maybe 400hz? and cross the midrange about about 250? Let the midrange play up to 3000hz?