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infinity 5350a
well I didnt really plan on getting rid of nothing and as far as spending limit goes all I planned on getting was a new sub box and upgradeing my alternater.I mean I already have 4 gage ran to a distribution block for my amps.I feel very comfortable doing the instal my self(I have a small problem not trusting anyone else).I have done all of my install myself on numerous vehicle( nothing to fanct though like in the photos you sent me ,good work by the way)I Live in northern lower partr of michigan.so what do yyou think I need to get rid of or swap out?
Well you don't need the plates, or the second set of components. I'd rather not use the second set of tweets, but if your totally stuck on it we can.
Do you plan on keeping this truck for a long time?
Can you build the box yourself, or would you be willing to have someone build you a custom box? I'd really like to see you use a down firing box with the subs behind the seats. But you will have to make it yourself, or have someone make it for you.
Do you plan on keeping this truck for a long time?
Can you build the box yourself, or would you be willing to have someone build you a custom box? I'd really like to see you use a down firing box with the subs behind the seats. But you will have to make it yourself, or have someone make it for you.
Ok I all ready have someone who wants the componants. but you know ( since you have a s 10 yourself )that the dash has 4x6's in it,so just put nothing in the dash or what?
I also agree on the down firing box but how big should thee chambers be cause they sell a down fireing box on ebay built just for a sonoma but I personally think it is way too big ( couldd use poly fill though)/
allthough I am totally capable of building my own box but I was just trying too avoid it.I wish I knew how to add photos on here cause I made a drawing af a box I wanted to show ya.
I also agree on the down firing box but how big should thee chambers be cause they sell a down fireing box on ebay built just for a sonoma but I personally think it is way too big ( couldd use poly fill though)/
allthough I am totally capable of building my own box but I was just trying too avoid it.I wish I knew how to add photos on here cause I made a drawing af a box I wanted to show ya.
If you want to add pics, click "go advance"d next to the post quick reply button, and there will be a link.
I don't have that S10 any more. I have a Honda accord now. The Trunk and pillar pictures I posted are my current car.
Honestly man, dash locations suck in 99% of vehicles. ESPECIALLY for tweeters like infinity that are know to be a little bright. I haven't ran dash speakers in my last 3 vehicles.
Keep in mind, sound waves don't like bouncing off of things, especially hard surfaces. When you bounce a sound wave off of something as hard as glass, especially higher freqs, you can end up with some killer peaks in your frequency response.
I should probably explain that to you too. Frequency response, or FR is basically a measurement of all sounds played at the same time in your car. I'm sure you've heard static from your TV before. Thats pretty close to what we call pink noise. Pink noise is 20 hertz to 20K hertz (the freq range the human ear can hear) all recorded at the same volume.
Basically we take an expensive microphone hooked to a display with a bunch of volume readouts, play pink noise, and then adjust our x-over and EQ to give us the FR that we want our car to play.
If you have any crazy peaks in your high freqs it can actually cause listening fatigue. Where your ears start to hurt, or you even end up with a head ache.
Ever set in a friends car and after a while the treble started to hurt, thats caused by peaks in his FR.
All I had in my S10 was a single set of Boston Acoustic Pro series components, and a Boston Pro 12. As you can see in the pictures the sub was slot loaded against the floor. The mids were in the doors, and the tweeters were flush mounted in the kick panels, firing across at each other.
I want you to keep your subs, and one component set. I know you picked that stuff for a reason, so I want to work with it. But I would really like to see you swap out those amps. Your components are 2 ohm, so I can't run the amp bridged on them without taking a chance on frying your amp.
And we don't need 10 channels of amplification. All we really need is 3. One mono channel for the subs, and 2 channels for the mids and highs.
I even thought about Bi-amping your components. So we can tie up 4 channels of amplification, but your infinity x-overs aren't bi-amp capable, and your amps x-over won't tune high enough.
If your 100% stuck with both amps, I can make it work, but you will have 6 channels going to waste, and not near as much power as I would like.
If you can trade in one, get a mono amp in the 500 watt rms range. (make sure it will match the coil config of your subs) (Or ask us and we can tell you)
If you can swap both.... ( I really hope so) Get a mono like I listed above, and a 2 channel rated at 100 watts RMS in stereo.
I really want to start you off simple, and see how you like it. if you decide you want little more in the way of highs, we can run a set of the kicker tweets with your home made x-overs off of the deck. If you put them in the pillars it would raise your sound stage, but keeping the power low would keep them from being to bright.
Oh and one more thing. Sound dampening.
Thats why I asked if you plan on keeping your truck. If you really want to get the best out of your stereo you need to dampen the doors. Even better if you can dampen the whole truck.
But thats something we can talk about in detail, if you want to go that route.
I don't have that S10 any more. I have a Honda accord now. The Trunk and pillar pictures I posted are my current car.
Honestly man, dash locations suck in 99% of vehicles. ESPECIALLY for tweeters like infinity that are know to be a little bright. I haven't ran dash speakers in my last 3 vehicles.
Keep in mind, sound waves don't like bouncing off of things, especially hard surfaces. When you bounce a sound wave off of something as hard as glass, especially higher freqs, you can end up with some killer peaks in your frequency response.
I should probably explain that to you too. Frequency response, or FR is basically a measurement of all sounds played at the same time in your car. I'm sure you've heard static from your TV before. Thats pretty close to what we call pink noise. Pink noise is 20 hertz to 20K hertz (the freq range the human ear can hear) all recorded at the same volume.
Basically we take an expensive microphone hooked to a display with a bunch of volume readouts, play pink noise, and then adjust our x-over and EQ to give us the FR that we want our car to play.
If you have any crazy peaks in your high freqs it can actually cause listening fatigue. Where your ears start to hurt, or you even end up with a head ache.
Ever set in a friends car and after a while the treble started to hurt, thats caused by peaks in his FR.
All I had in my S10 was a single set of Boston Acoustic Pro series components, and a Boston Pro 12. As you can see in the pictures the sub was slot loaded against the floor. The mids were in the doors, and the tweeters were flush mounted in the kick panels, firing across at each other.
I want you to keep your subs, and one component set. I know you picked that stuff for a reason, so I want to work with it. But I would really like to see you swap out those amps. Your components are 2 ohm, so I can't run the amp bridged on them without taking a chance on frying your amp.
And we don't need 10 channels of amplification. All we really need is 3. One mono channel for the subs, and 2 channels for the mids and highs.
I even thought about Bi-amping your components. So we can tie up 4 channels of amplification, but your infinity x-overs aren't bi-amp capable, and your amps x-over won't tune high enough.
If your 100% stuck with both amps, I can make it work, but you will have 6 channels going to waste, and not near as much power as I would like.
If you can trade in one, get a mono amp in the 500 watt rms range. (make sure it will match the coil config of your subs) (Or ask us and we can tell you)
If you can swap both.... ( I really hope so) Get a mono like I listed above, and a 2 channel rated at 100 watts RMS in stereo.
I really want to start you off simple, and see how you like it. if you decide you want little more in the way of highs, we can run a set of the kicker tweets with your home made x-overs off of the deck. If you put them in the pillars it would raise your sound stage, but keeping the power low would keep them from being to bright.
Oh and one more thing. Sound dampening.
Thats why I asked if you plan on keeping your truck. If you really want to get the best out of your stereo you need to dampen the doors. Even better if you can dampen the whole truck.
But thats something we can talk about in detail, if you want to go that route.