Car Audio Central - Ultimate Car Audio Forum and Community

Ok. So I'm gonna go with Alpine SWR-1242D x 2 subs and MB Quart DSC 1000.1 amp. Add additional "audio" 4ga wire for the alternator +, Battery ground and engine to chassis ground. No alternator upgrade but instead get a Shuriken SK-BT35 power cell (to be located in the trunk) for additional power for the amp. Sound good so far?

Now my next question.....

I have usually went with Stinger HPM wire. I can get Stinger HPM 0 (1/0) awg wire for $3.75 per ft. I already have the 4 awg wire from a previous install so I won't be needing to buy any of that. Is that a good wire to go with? Or would you recommend something else?

KnuKonceptz good wire lots cheaper.

Oh god yes. $2 per foot cheaper on ebay.

Ok so what's the difference between copper clad aluminum and oxygen free copper. Wouldn't ofc wire be better?

Forgot something. 12awg wire for sub speaker wire. What about main line fuse? 150A, 250A?

copper clad aluminum wire has an aluminum core and copper outer skin its cheaper than pure copper has good cunductivity and it weighs less. i use it in my car works fine wouldnt mind using all copper but its up to 7 or more a foot at the local shops around here

for fuse size i use this
http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp
get a fuse thats rated at the lines capacity

colemanyoungerinalaska wrote:copper clad aluminum wire has an aluminum core and copper outer skin its cheaper than pure copper has good cunductivity and it weighs less. i use it in my car works fine wouldnt mind using all copper but its up to 7 or more a foot at the local shops around here

for fuse size i use this
http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp
get a fuse thats rated at the lines capacity

So going with that at the length I will be running. I would only need 2 gauge wire even if I were to go up to 1400 watts rms. And use a 225A fuse for 2 gauge and 350 for 1/0 gauge. But I haven't seen much in the way of 2 gauge wire being sold anywhere.

So still go with 1/0 wire and a 350A fuse then? And I'll be using the CCA wire. $1.75 per foot. I like that price better than $3.75 per foot..

I want to add something real quick the guys missed. Don't worry about max ratings on subs or amps. They are pretty much pointless.

Just match up your RMS wattage, and you will be fine.

callandor2k wrote:So going with that at the length I will be running. I would only need 2 gauge wire even if I were to go up to 1400 watts rms. And use a 225A fuse for 2 gauge and 350 for 1/0 gauge. But I haven't seen much in the way of 2 gauge wire being sold anywhere.

So still go with 1/0 wire and a 350A fuse then? And I'll be using the CCA wire. $1.75 per foot. I like that price better than $3.75 per foot..

CCA wire has a lower capacity than OFC use a 250 amp fuse and you will be fine.

I just thought of something. If I do run a Shruiken battery (and plan on doing so) in the trunk, would I need to fuse the line between my car battery and the Shuriken battery with this 250A fuse? And since the MB Quart 1000.1 requires 4awg wire as it's power wire. I would use a 150A fuse between the amp and Shuriken battery.

Am I thinking correctly?

According to Shuriken....

"these are not batteries designed for starting. These are quick discharge/recharge batteries designed for audio use only."

Yes I actually e-mailed them to verify.

So basically from that I gather it is basically a large capacitor so to speak.

Where as Kinetik states their batteries can be used as start batteries.

So with that said. What if I went up to the Kinetik HC1200 as my main battery (it's the largest that will fit by measuring factory battery in stock location) and not add a secondary battery. Would that be ok in your opinions? Or should I just add a secondary and forget the main?

Dont get the aluminum wire.

I used it once and its not easy to work with. It doesnt bend well. It cuts funny and strands pull out easy.

I wont use it again.