qlc1964 wrote:I would say do your home work first don't go get a 1000 rms sub
and( i think you should get the amp rms out put close as possible
to that sub)then can't afford the right amp for it and most likely
your charging system won't handle it .
then i would stick with amps with 4 ohm rating instead of 2 ohm
ratings. every thing works better in 4 ohms amp lasting longer
and cleaner sound.
just my 2 cents
I highly doubt anyone would hear any difference from 4 ohm and 1 ohm wiring. Is there some yea probably will you hear it nope. Secondly you should have more power than your sub requires in my opinion that way you have plenty of headroom in the amp and keep everything clean. Problem is most new commers to the sport wont do that they will try to use every bit of power
Dave, even the big names like RE FI, Ascendant IA, DC all take it into account. Even me to a point. Thing is we kinda have to. You want a sub to be loud but still retain thermal limits. So lets say i have a 1000w sub and a 1000wrms amp. OK so i wire my 1000w amp to my 1000w sub at 1 ohm. At 1 ohm in a normal ported box rise will be 3x whatever your Nominal load is. so 3 ohm. say this amp is rated at 600 at 2 and 400 at 4 that means your sub is going to get about 500 or so watts. OK so lets say we slap a NORMAL 1000wrms mechanical suspension on the sub. do you think the sub will react mechanically the same with a suspension built for 1000rms? Nope. So to accommodate that most manufactures change the spider set out to something a little less stiff. Which increases sensitivity. If they were built for true 1000rms they wouldn't be as loud as another sub from another manufacture because the other manufacture accounted for it.
Bwcad1 wrote:I highly doubt anyone would hear any difference from 4 ohm and 1 ohm wiring. Is there some yea probably will you hear it nope. Secondly you should have more power than your sub requires in my opinion that way you have plenty of headroom in the amp and keep everything clean. Problem is most new commers to the sport wont do that they will try to use every bit of power
Dave, even the big names like RE FI, Ascendant IA, DC all take it into account. Even me to a point. Thing is we kinda have to. You want a sub to be loud but still retain thermal limits. So lets say i have a 1000w sub and a 1000wrms amp. OK so i wire my 1000w amp to my 1000w sub at 1 ohm. At 1 ohm in a normal ported box rise will be 3x whatever your Nominal load is. so 3 ohm. say this amp is rated at 600 at 2 and 400 at 4 that means your sub is going to get about 500 or so watts. OK so lets say we slap a NORMAL 1000wrms mechanical suspension on the sub. do you think the sub will react mechanically the same with a suspension built for 1000rms? Nope. So to accommodate that most manufactures change the spider set out to something a little less stiff. Which increases sensitivity. If they were built for true 1000rms they wouldn't be as loud as another sub from another manufacture because the other manufacture accounted for it.
BW
lol I agree with you i was jk when i said i don't buy from those manufacturers, hence the reason i said lol. I will say though, DD rates some of their subs pretty damn conservatively as do some other companies with some sub lines, but for the most part i agree with ya.
it seems like people forget that you dont have to have a monoblock to run a sub. there are advantages but really for a single sub in a daily driver or even a pair of subs there are 2 channel options that work really well. the autotek lineup has a few higher powered 2 channel amps that are pretty well priced and even much less than youll pay for some crappy monoblocks. i used to sell that at1000 for less than 200 to guys all the time that were running dual 2 ohm subwoofers and just series wire the coils together for 4 ohms and they sounded great.
Bwcad1 wrote:I highly doubt anyone would hear any difference from 4 ohm and 1 ohm wiring. Is there some yea probably will you hear it nope. Secondly you should have more power than your sub requires in my opinion that way you have plenty of headroom in the amp and keep everything clean. Problem is most new commers to the sport wont do that they will try to use every bit of power
Dave, even the big names like RE FI, Ascendant IA, DC all take it into account. Even me to a point. Thing is we kinda have to. You want a sub to be loud but still retain thermal limits. So lets say i have a 1000w sub and a 1000wrms amp. OK so i wire my 1000w amp to my 1000w sub at 1 ohm. At 1 ohm in a normal ported box rise will be 3x whatever your Nominal load is. so 3 ohm. say this amp is rated at 600 at 2 and 400 at 4 that means your sub is going to get about 500 or so watts. OK so lets say we slap a NORMAL 1000wrms mechanical suspension on the sub. do you think the sub will react mechanically the same with a suspension built for 1000rms? Nope. So to accommodate that most manufactures change the spider set out to something a little less stiff. Which increases sensitivity. If they were built for true 1000rms they wouldn't be as loud as another sub from another manufacture because the other manufacture accounted for it.
BW
Hey, I gotta ask, if a normal ported box will rise 3x the nominal, what will a normal sealed box rise??
Just asking. And im in full agreement of having more power than the sub requires. I like the extra headroom.
tim
"The opinions expressed in the preceding post are purely an opinion and not meant to be used as a reference. So if you screw something up because of something I said I will not and can not be held responsible". Thank you for understanding.
Tim Strong http://upscaleaudiodesigns.webs.com/
Email: [email protected]
X-box Live Gamertag:quad drpr
about the same. but none of that should be taken as gospel that's merely an average. my Buicks impedance rise was about 7x my vans is 2.5-4x. All this changes based on freq as well. Typically impedance rise drops the lower your frequency.
