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no one mentioned huge engines, im a ford guy at heart and any windsor based block will do, 302 or 351.....both small blocks, both capable of real power without any nos or blowers or anything, both streetable when built, the last 302 i built went 11.4 on motor alone, not a real radical build but still very quick for a street car. i know you can make just about anything run mid 11 second times but not on the money i did it with, it was a junkyard motor to start with and a 85 mustang 4 cyl car with not motor or trans to start with. i had 2 or 3k in the entire car including body work by the time it was done.

cargodz wrote:I was building up carburated cars/ trucks before most of you were out of diapers and some even born LOL

Now that one I'll give you guys. Hell, most of the cars I've worked on were older than I was.

I can honestly understand why guys stick with carbs, since that's what they now. But most of my experience has been on older EFI cars, and I preffer it. Easier to work on IMO.

aaron_sk wrote:Now that one I'll give you guys. Hell, most of the cars I've worked on were older than I was.
I can honestly understand why guys stick with carbs, since that's what they now. But most of my experience has been on older EFI cars, and I preffer it. Easier to work on IMO.

More ease of not working on them if you leave them stock if you ask me
I've always been a GM fan myself... with the good ole 350 being my canvas more times than I can count with fingers and socks off LOL
It's not to say that I have anything against EFI systems as that's the majority of what I see now... And there is something to be said for a 4cyl. putting out over 300 ponies... New or old a muscle car is a muscle car when it comes to running at the track, but man does it make it easier when you can get by with a standard 49 piece tool kit, vice grips, and a hammer

Well, decided this isn't an exhaust problem anymore. I have a feeling something else went out as soon as the headers were added. I've been looking at fuel delivery or ignition. Started with ignition because the cap and rotor were shot, so I replaced those. Also replaced the coil with one I had in the garage. Symptoms still persist but now I can get a decent idle, as soon as a load is put on the car (especially on a hill), the motor hesitates and wants to rattle the valves out. I also still get the random pops in the exhaust. Also, it doesn't like any base timing advance, so it's still at the stock 0* for now, and the computer likes to add about 15* at idle.

I would make sure you don't have a DEI system...



(lol joke from a thread I made :) )

Check your spark plug wires, make sure none of them are burnt and that they are snapped on all the way... Also might want to make sure you didnt get a couple crossed...

Pull your egr valve and make sure its clean and functions properly...

Its probably something easy that your over looking....

MobileAudio219 wrote:Check your spark plug wires, make sure none of them are burnt and that they are snapped on all the way... Also might want to make sure you didnt get a couple crossed...
Pull your egr valve and make sure its clean and functions properly...
Its probably something easy that your over looking....

That's exactly what it was. After all the checks and double checks I did, a second set of eyes was all I needed to see my mistake. #2 and #4 wires were crossed, put them on the right plugs and made a world of difference.