Because most people don't run their woofers IB or free air :)Bwcad1 wrote:right in theory wrong in the real world. if that was the case then y would anyone need high power subs? y would we be making 3 and 4 inch coil subwoofers.
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Quick Amp question
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solacedagony
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solacedagony wrote:Because most people don't run their woofers IB or free air :)
that wasn't stated, and even then in ib or free air it still will make a diffrence your getting into the mechanics of subwoofers such as cone mass former / coil mass and most importantly in this situation spiders.
ps t/s parameters are bs.
Hey thanks a lot for that, I'm thinking I should probably stay around 800 then and just spend the extra on a nice sub like u said. Preciate the help.cargodz wrote:Well after doing some checking on your Tiburon... Looks like it has an 80 amp alternator... So your safe bet without having to upgrade that would be to stay below 750watts RMS with your red top and just the big 3 upgrades...
So I'd would recommend that maybe you start looking into a nice 15" that will handle the 600w-800wrms range and feed it about that.
Also does anyone know if the good bad and ugly list still applies to 2007? I was checking it out to make a decision on all this stuff. Thanks
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solacedagony
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I think Ryan's point to the OP was to pick a sub that fits his application, not based on how much power it can take.Bwcad1 wrote:that wasn't stated, and even then in ib or free air it still will make a diffrence your getting into the mechanics of subwoofers such as cone mass former / coil mass and most importantly in this situation spiders.
ps t/s parameters are bs.
Okay thanks for the enlightenment guys. Now I was reading through the forum and found the threads about spl , sq and boomcars. Now I was wrong about wanting spl. Is there a way to incorporate a boomcar system with sq? And if so are there defining specs for each type (I.e. Spl,sq, and boomcar subs?)
I've been searching around and did the displacement formula for them and found the RE audio SE15 dual 4 ohm to be pushing out the most at 2.92 , does that sound correct? And is that a good level for a boomcar?
I've been searching around and did the displacement formula for them and found the RE audio SE15 dual 4 ohm to be pushing out the most at 2.92 , does that sound correct? And is that a good level for a boomcar?
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solacedagony
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An SE would work. An SX in a ported box would probably be even better.
Also consider Fi Car Audio and Ascendant Audio subs. Both are great buys for the money. If you're looking for the ability to get loud, there's no replacement for displacement. Go with the biggest sub that you have room to box up. Box sizes get quite big as your sub diameter increases, so keep the amount of room you have available to work with in mind.
Also consider Fi Car Audio and Ascendant Audio subs. Both are great buys for the money. If you're looking for the ability to get loud, there's no replacement for displacement. Go with the biggest sub that you have room to box up. Box sizes get quite big as your sub diameter increases, so keep the amount of room you have available to work with in mind.
Boomcar (a.k.a. SQL) is actually just that... It it a suitable combination of SQ and SPL for a daily driver...Syn wrote:Okay thanks for the enlightenment guys. Now I was reading through the forum and found the threads about spl , sq and boomcars. Now I was wrong about wanting spl. Is there a way to incorporate a boomcar system with sq?
My own recommendations for you would be:
RE SX15
WP FSQ15
Fi Q15
Massive CW15
Listed in order of price (most expensive to cheapest)... any one of these would make an outstanding street system in the right enclosure
-Michael
http://www.teamcargodzinc.com
Hear It, See It, Feel It, Punch It!
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http://www.teamcargodzinc.com
Hear It, See It, Feel It, Punch It!
And Proud Sponsor of
Team Wolf Pack Audio
Authorized Dealer

