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So do you think the problem with it is the way they are wired inside the box? What else could it be besides the amp haveing something wrong with it

Heres the specs to my amp also

* 1 x 400 Watts RMS @ 4 Ohms
* 1 x 800 Watts RMS @ 2 Ohms
* 1500 - 1600 watt peak
* 0 - 18 dB Variable Bass Boost Control(45Hz)
* 0 - 180 Degree Selectable Phase Control
* Short/Thermal/Overload Protection Circuitry
* Daisy chainable so you can run a second amp through the signal of this amp
* 2 Ohm Stable (4 ohm stable when Daisy-Chained with another amp)
* Adjustable RCA Gain Control
* Silver Plated RCA Line Input/Output
* Silver 4 Gauge Power
* 8 Gauge Speaker Connections
* Frequency Response 15 Hz - 150 Hz
* 24 dB Variable Subsonic Filter(15Hz - 40Hz)
* 24 dB Variable Low Pass Filter(50Hz - 150Hz)
* Remote Gain Control Knob
* Audiosavings 2 year warranty
* Dimensions: (LxWxD) 11" x 7.25" x 2"

How do you put an avatar on your name

dunno usually the amp would protect because of an incorrect load.

audiobahn88 wrote:How do you put an avatar on your name

You have to get a platinum membership... cost $10 and you get other lil perks like platty sections, arcade, cac email.

And if you're that close to Bill then I'd say get over to him and get it figured out for sure first hand

i think that the problem might be with how its wired on the inside of the box which most cases you only wire it like that when your bridging the amp. i would bring it over to bill i am pretty sure he can fix it.

i dont think its a load issue because the amp would just protect not shut off.

i had a problem with the amp going on and off a few times before. the first time was when i started doing my own installs. the place i got my amp from hooked the remote turn on lead to the power antenna lead. when i told them that they wired it wrong they was like well we are backed up right now it would take us a day to look at it. so i did it on my own and found the problem. the second time was my error. i didnt make a good enough connection on the main power lead and the remote lead.

I got it all figured out guys thanks for your help though it was a load problem i was running 1 ohm on my amp and it is only capable of 2 ohms or 4 ohms so thats why it kept shuting down completely. Another question how can i wire my subs to do a 2 ohm load? Its a 4 ohms right now and its not very loud anymore so if its possible just write back thanks

u cant. your subs are dual 4 which means half the imp would be 2 ohm per driver then paralleling the drives gives you one ohm. and putting each driver in series would give you 8 ohm per driver then paralleling them would give you 4 ohm. so its 4 or 8 ohm. sell your amp and get a 1 ohm stable one.