Worst Nightmare wrote:1. CAI (cold air induction) - unless your car/truck is putting out 300+ hp stock, this will only yield little results.
These can help on vehicles like diesel trucks where air flow is a major limiting factor, but the main thing with a CAI is that it actually draws in
cold outside air.. not air from right next to your manifold like most of the ricer CAIs seem to, by placing a cone filter over or behind the engine.
2. Headers, high-flow catalytic converters, larger diameter exhaust, y-pipe/x-pipe, etc. Now we're talkin' "butt-dyno" gains!. JBA headers, hi-flow cat converters and x-pipe gave me 30+ hp dyno proven. Exhaust mods WORK!
yes exhaust enhancements work if you get good ones (tuned ceramic coated headers that are well made, good mufflers, etc) and not these bolt-on cat-back systems. A new exhaust will only add any real benefit if it's from the exhaust ports on the block back. Otherwise your restrictive, turbulant manifold and downpipe(s) are still choking your flow before you get to the expensive bolt-on shiny crap you just blew $500 on.
3. GEARS! - Installing 4.56 gears and Richmond powertrax no-slip netted me a FULL SECOND less 0-60 times! May not be a factor for you 400+hp turbo guys, but for a torquey V8, it WORKS! This is probably my most notable upgrade.
again, an LSD and lower gearing is a great way to increase 0-60 times, but you pay for it in highway fuel economy by losing yourtaller gears generally speaking, and it's not a cheap upgrade. My Dana 60 suregrip LSD with 4.10 gears ran me about $3500 with Strange axles, and that's before the upgraded suspension for the rear end, or the wheels and tires.
3. Hypertech, Superchip, etc. I had a Hypertech programmer. It allowed me to compensate for my 20'' (31'' tire size) to bring the shift points back in order. Otherwise they really aren't worth the $$$.
This entirely depends again on the vehicle. FWith a good programmer on a diesel truck you're looking at massive gains in HP and torque. On a small displacement import where the engine is already tweaked pretty fully off the lot to squeeze power from a small motor, you won't see as much gain.. but all in all, this is usually the best bang for the buck you can get for a simple "bolt on" type upgrade to an OBD-II car.
1. SUPERCHARGER/TURBO - for all you guys looking for moderate hp/torque gains, forget everything mentioned above and save your money for a supercharger/turbo. You can't beat forced-induction
.
no replacement for displacement. period. that aside, forced induction is a good way to add substantial power, but understand that if you want serious amounts of boost from any FI system, it's going to cost you. You're looking at an ECM reprogram if sing EFI, new cams, probably transmission upgrades to handle added power, and a new bottom end for the engine consisting of low compression pistons, forged rods, and so forth since you'll want a lower CR for forced induction to get more bars of boost.
In regards to the throttlebody upgrade, be aware that your loss of low end torque and higher horsepower is an indication of not a gain in actual power, but a shift in your powerband. A number of bolt-ons use this mentality to make you think you're gaining power when all you're really doing is making power at a higher RPM range instead. Looks nice on a dyno, but torque moves cars, and your acceleration curve is always going to parallel your torque curve, regardless of the hosepower numbers.
