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sinister.. well i don't really mean it like that.. but i just don't see myself as the casual enthusiast (as jonathan described on the first page of this thread) who is satisified with a boss system bought at a fleamarket.

another thing...

can chicken wire be used to make an accurate mold?could i use it to form the shape of my trunk and then take it out and start glassing from there? HOw is it cut also? would i need a dremel to cut or could i just use some hand tool

sinister audio wrote:audiophiles what to have their music reproduced to perfection with very minimal about of bass atleast most of the time. If you think your going on the Audiophile path then the RE SX series subs arnt for you. Youll want something like the old XXX or maybe an SE.

It's not that Audiophiles don't like bass, it's that they want balanced bass. Subs suck without a midbass that can compliment them

For example, I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place because I love the SEAS Lotus components for their clarity and detail. Pretty laid back with the silk dome. The midbass isn't the greatest, though, or the upper treble extension. While I can get good integration from the set to a sub, I'd love some strong midbass output .

I auditioned the Morel Elate 9" 3 way components a little while back. They have that laid back, relaxed sound that I'm fond of, on the warm side. The dome mid is only 1" deep and easy to implement. But the best part is it comes with a 9" midbass driver. When I was auditioning them, I saw the typical marketing tag that describes the components, and it listed a frequency response of 20hz-25000hz. I put some test music through the components and crunk the volume up expecting to snicker when I found out what they would really go down to. It didn't take long for me to figure out that the midbass in that set WILL DROP DOWN TO THE 20s I'd cross them over around 40hz or so most likely, but put that thing with some high output subs and it would be SICK

Darthness wrote:another thing...
can chicken wire be used to make an accurate mold?could i use it to form the shape of my trunk and then take it out and start glassing from there? HOw is it cut also? would i need a dremel to cut or could i just use some hand tool

The "easy way out" of making a mold of your trunk well, is to line it with painter's drop cloth, and use standard Polyester resin (just make sure it doesn't say "epoxy resin") for doing your 'glassing.

Polyester resin doesn't stick to plastics (or really anything that's shiny and non-porous).

So, you can lay down some painters dropcloth, press it and double-sided tape it into position just to hold it flat on your surfaces as desired...

Then, rest your wooden frame structure in place (the sides/front/back of the "enclosure" that the top baffle will be screwed to).

Then, do your fiberglassing - glass the trunk well (you'll be sticking your pieces down to the plastic, of course), and make sure you fiberglass right up to and overlapping the MDF wooden structure - the resin will bond strongly with it.

Once the piece cures, it'll lift right out of the trunk (unless you went nuts with the double-sided tape ).

Flip it over, and rip the plastic off your cured piece - it'll come off like the backing on a sticker (but if you mixed your resin properly, won't be sticky like a sticker ).

Pretty easy, really.

IF you want to mold a trunk LID - I'd suggest removing it - and plastic might work if you are really good with the doublesided tape - but I'd probably just tape over any holes and seams, and then use a mold release wax (car waxes actually work just as well, IMO - and are softer and easier to work with ).
Fiberglassing upside down is asking for trouble.

i forgot to elaborate... i want to make a mold of the spare-tire-well.. the reason i want to make a mold that i can remove is mainly so it'll give me more time to do it right somehwere where i won't be cramped or anything.