Car Audio Central - Ultimate Car Audio Forum and Community

Bwcad1 wrote:Agreed.
How did you set the amp with a dmm? Did you turn the bass boost up or down after adjustment? If your not getting the output and punch you want Its because you have small sealed boxes.

i followed all instruction for adjusting with a dmm any boost adjustments were made afterwards.

the box is .65 per chamber with the sub installed, its to their specs.

cool mr grinch wrote:i followed all instruction for adjusting with a dmm any boost adjustments were made afterwards.
the box is .65 per chamber with the sub installed, its to their specs.

Boost is doing nothing but adding distortion and clipping if your gains were set correctly. Most likely your just burning coil.

Just because the manufacture says .65 is good doesn't mean it will fit your taste. If your looking for more output small sealed is not the way to go. You most likely need a larger box with a decent port.

The worst thing I see is the Freq. is set way to high.

That dial should be set at about 11 O'clock position. That should be right around 80-90 Hz.

The Bass Boost should be set to 0. The bass knob should be turned all the way up (IMO) providing its only an attenuation device. This allows you to turn your bass DOWN rather than up. Im not sure on the Hifonics amps. Only do this IF its a 0 dB device. If its actually adding GAIN to the output then dont do this!

Your amp has more than enough power... You have 2000 WRMS on tap and only need 1200ish.

Bill mentions box size and box type.

Your current box is fine. It SHOULDNT make the subs sound bad. However it wont have a ton of output- its a sealed box and you have 10's.

If its a case of not enough output I would look into a ported box.

If its a case of it not sounding good, it could be because your settings- mainly the Freq and the Bass Boost.

If you want to mess with the current box, you can make it appear larger to the subs by lightly stuffing it with Polyfill.

First and foremost I would look at the amp settings again.

im very familiar with these amps and aside from the lpf setting i dont really see anything wrong with it. the bass knob merely controls the bass eq setting on the amp....where you set it will be your max setting on the knob......im still gonna go with the box.....turn your lpf setting down and have boxes built....youve got nice subs and a nice amp so why cheap out on the box? you will never maximize the potential of those subs in that box.......

smoker wrote:im very familiar with these amps and aside from the lpf setting i dont really see anything wrong with it. the bass knob merely controls the bass eq setting on the amp....where you set it will be your max setting on the knob......im still gonna go with the box.....turn your lpf setting down and have boxes built....youve got nice subs and a nice amp so why cheap out on the box? you will never maximize the potential of those subs in that box.......

Agreed 100percent.

can anybody help me with box dimensions so i can attempt to assemble one? slot port or round port?

1.25 cubes with individual chambers, 3" port 11" long

If you want to do a slot port I will need to know more about box height.

I see you have a strut brace running across there...

Yeah strut braces front and rear, adjustable struts, upgraded rear swaybar, and a supercharger nobody knows about.

Would one chamber or 2 chambers be better?

I would jsut common chamber it.

Did adjusting the LPF help at all?