Quick Amp question

Syn · Post by **Syn** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 2:24 pm

William from NOLA wrote:Due to the laws of physics, the amount of power is almost meaningless. You could have a 50 rms woofer with 50 rms just make a fool of a 1000 rms woofer with the same power.
I think going with less power is a better strategy overall. That way you won't have to do as much electrical upgrades to keep you afloat. But I do suppose it is worth it sometimes to spend that extra $2k and get those dB's hehe

If I get a 1000 watt rms amp would I need to upgrade a lot of stuff? I know the big 3 would be a proper start , but would there be others I would have to upgrade?

swimmerdude · Post by **swimmerdude** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 2:41 pm

For 1000w RMS, you will be fine on cheap upgrades. A HO alt will not be needed. The big3 will be a must though. If you still get dimming, a better front battery will help as stock ones suck. Even a $75 Walmart Everstart Maxx is a lot better than a stock battery.

William from NOLA · Post by **William from NOLA** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 2:42 pm

If you just have a 1000 watt class d mono amp, then you may have electrical issues if you have a car with a small alternator rating such as a japanese car. But for the most part, you should be okay.

You'd be the safest with 500 watts or less on all factory electrics. I would recommend at minimum a battery upgrade on anything over 500 watts. I would say it is safe to assume that you need a new alternator at 1500 watts.

Syn · Post by **Syn** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 2:49 pm

Well I do have an optima red top that I need to install on my car, from what I hear most systems run pretty clean on the red and yellow tops.

William from NOLA · Post by **William from NOLA** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 4:13 pm

That will do you good with up to 1000 watts rms

Syn · Post by **Syn** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 5:51 pm

William from NOLA wrote:That will do you good with up to 1000 watts rms

would 1000 watts to that custom sub do it justice? Or should I look more to run a 15"?

Ryan from Ohio · Post by **Ryan from Ohio** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 6:14 pm

I think you have a perception problem on whats loud with what power.

True, dumping power one subs will make it louder, but it comes at a cost.

But putting it simple, Type A sub is 100 WRMS, has 2" of xmax. Type Z sub is 6,780WRMS, has 2" of xmax. All other TS parameters the same.

Which sub will be louder providing you apply the full RMS power?

DIN DING DING, neither/both. They should give the same SPL, the same SQ, the same everything...

Now onto your issues.

If you are unhappy with the Type R maybe its time to step away from Alpine. If the Type R cant deliver on your SPL needs then you need to move up.

What is a good question...

I would suggest selecting a price range, then looking for subs that fit that range.

solacedagony · Post by **solacedagony** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 8:02 pm

Xmax and cone area are the main determinants of total air displacement (output), like Ryan said. Power handling is kind of a moot point, as it changes a lot based on the box type, box size and operating range. You'll only be able to get as loud as the sub can mechanically move.

Now, onto the amplifier side of things. I always go by the rule that it's better to have EXTRA power than too little, especially on your front stage. Your amp is going to have to deal with transients on top of the average power it's putting out. So if it's already junking out on the average power that it's putting out, any loud passages are going to make it near clipping or actually clip, on top of stressing more and more amp components.

Then comes the next point. A bigger amplifier of the same caliber requires more money (more parts/better parts/bigger parts cost more).

So really, you need to factor all this in and decide what you really want to spend your money on. Is extremely loud bass what you're aiming for or are you more concerned with how clear and crisp your midrange is.
/rant

cargodz · Post by **cargodz** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 12:04 am

Well after doing some checking on your Tiburon... Looks like it has an 80 amp alternator... So your safe bet without having to upgrade that would be to stay below 750watts RMS with your red top and just the big 3 upgrades...
So I'd would recommend that maybe you start looking into a nice 15" that will handle the 600w-800wrms range and feed it about that.

Bwcad1 · Post by **Bwcad1** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 3:04 am

Ryan from Ohio wrote:I think you have a perception problem on whats loud with what power.
True, dumping power one subs will make it louder, but it comes at a cost.
But putting it simple, Type A sub is 100 WRMS, has 2" of xmax. Type Z sub is 6,780WRMS, has 2" of xmax. All other TS parameters the same.
Which sub will be louder providing you apply the full RMS power?

right in theory wrong in the real world. if that was the case then y would anyone need high power subs? y would we be making 3 and 4 inch coil subwoofers.