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Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 5:19 pm
by Ryan from Ohio
Fuse Rating 80A

:sm29:

It probably sounds like a sales pitch, but I can promise you that box is going to suck. The ports are skinny as all hell...

Heres what a box should look like- note the port:
Image

and

Image

See the difference ;)

I just wanted to give you fair warning. Sure a custom box might be $100 more, but....

1) Its built around YOUR subs
2) Its built to YOUR specs (size wise)
3) Its designed around your musical tastes
4) Its just built better than a stapled POS prefab, no joke :words

:thumbsup

Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 5:49 pm
by Bwcad1
Screws do nothing for the strength of a box. using brad nails or staples arnt bad as long as you use good glue. glue holds the box together. if you want me to prove it i will. grab a corner of a box with screws and you can pull the screw right out of it. try that with good glue and staples the wood will break before the glue or staples will.

Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 6:07 pm
by Ryan from Ohio
I will agree if your edges are perfect, like planed edges that are perfectly square. If the edges have voids or nasty marks from the blades, the glue needs to fill this area and its a weak point. This includes angles. Elmers glue alone is very strong, but the actual glue layer used on the wood when clamped is extremely thin. The thicker the glue in the gap, the weaker the bond. Ahhhh the joys of wood shop :)

I use titebond 2 glue, sometimes 3. I guess if you use nasty PL glue it doesnt matter, it wont ever come apart...lol

Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 6:11 pm
by Bwcad1
Nope i use Titebond. i dont use PL on boxes only for walls. and as nasty as it is on your hands will will deffinatly hold anything together. just make sure your cuts are right or learn how to sand lol.

Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 6:30 pm
by Alsandair
could you guys give me a site that has some really good boxes for fairly cheap like i was saying i want to order it all tonight cuz i need it all before sunday installed because i am going to the beach then and also this is all going in a 94 pontiac sunbird in the trunk

Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 7:05 pm
by Alsandair
wat about these sub boxes compared to the one i had listed
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop ... sell_price
i dont wanna spend this much money but theres this also
http://www.mainstreet-audio.com/Merchan ... ode=DUAL12
any suggestions plz

Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 7:10 pm
by Alsandair
also i need to get the 80A fuse for the 4 gauge wiring were u guys talking about the 59dollar one listed in the amp instalation kit the first one?

Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 7:18 pm
by Alsandair
also can somebody tell me exactly how 2 subs can get into 1 channel someone said hooking them up parrell how do u do that lol

Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 11:34 pm
by cargodz
Alsandair wrote:also can somebody tell me exactly how 2 subs can get into 1 channel someone said hooking them up parrell how do u do that lol
Here's a link to JL's site that shows a good diagram of how to wire up subs... the one you want to look at is in the second row on the right hand side "2 DVC drivers with Voice Coils in Parallel / Parallel" for Dual 4 ohm Voice coils]http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=161[/URL]

And I don't say this to put you down, but it seems obvious that you are still yet a novice at car audio, so please take into account the advise from these guys, especially on the box... half of what makes up the output of your subs is the enclosure...
And it's been said many times on this forum:
"Put cheap subs in a proper enclosure and they will still sound better than Premium high dollar subs in the wrong one... Do ya really want someone with crappy lil 10" Pyramids with less than half the power to pound harder than you?"
Also I realize that you want to have it all now, but a good system is only as good as it's install, so please take your time. :thumbsup

Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 4:49 pm
by Ryan from Ohio
if your dead set on a prefab, find one thats .85-1 cubic feet total per sub.