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And how much did this cost?

retail there 200 bucks but well u know me and my deals lol by the way im finishing your box tonight hopefully.

and there is a new battery out in europe that they could call a 3000cca battery if they wanted it actually does way more than that but of course we cant get it here. incrimnator audio may import them though. at 700 bucks!

retail there 200 bucks

Pass on the deals to me!! lol, I need a new bat very bad. And you better get that box finished!!

so it seems that the consensus for the most part is that RF is full of it.

If you look at the link, it doesn't say an additional 100A or anything like that, it just says all you need is a 100A alternator (and a cap , I did say they were partially full of it knowing they mass produce caps).

I find this very interesting.

My stock alternator is 140A so we'll see what happens. I'll let you know if (or how bad) my headlights dim.

Thanks for the input, I find this topic VERY interesting, i.e. the fact that Rockford Fosgate would print that. I know they are all about making $$$, but at the same time, they HAVE to have some smart people over there too...

...but I can't stop thinking I ran a 1500w amp (and 2F capacitor, i.e. more alt stress) on a 90A alternator for three years NO apparent problems and I worked the heck out of that amp, I ran it at 1 ohm, rap music, the amp ran HOT, and my subs POUNDED.....for three years until I wrecked the car and system in an accident (hit some ice, I'm fine)...that's much longer than 6 months on a smaller alternator.....however, I can't argue that the numbers are the numbers

keep in mind that regardless of the rated amplifier power, it's more a matter of your fingers on the volume knob.
every time you audibly double the volume of the stereo, you're using six to ten TIMES the amount of power to reach that volume. Going in the other direction with that, a "1200 watt" amp may only be putting out about 50 watts at what you'd consider "loud" levels, but still nowhere near it's peak output.
Also consider that the same 1200 watt rating is measured in a lab, on a scope, with a non inductive load and a tone generator.
In real life you're using a dynamic signal (music) on a reactive load (speakers) in an environment (sub enclosures) that also affects the load on the amp, so in reality you're really never going to see that full 1200 watts.

Now keeping all of that in mind, go read these:
http://www.bcae1.com/capacitr.htm
http://www.glasswolf.net/caraudio/capacitors.html
http://www.glasswolf.net/caraudio/charging.html
http://www.betteraudio.com/geolemon/newmain/battcapalt/
http://www.bcae1.com/charging.htm
http://www.bcae1.com/chargin2.htm
http://www.bcae1.com/battiso.htm
http://www.glasswolf.net/caraudio/batteries.html
http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp

GlassWolf wrote:keep in mind that regardless of the rated amplifier power, it's more a matter of your fingers on the volume knob.
every time you audibly double the volume of the stereo, you're using six to ten TIMES the amount of power to reach that volume. Going in the other direction with that, a "1200 watt" amp may only be putting out about 50 watts at what you'd consider "loud" levels, but still nowhere near it's peak output.
Also consider that the same 1200 watt rating is measured in a lab, on a scope, with a non inductive load and a tone generator.
In real life you're using a dynamic signal (music) on a reactive load (speakers) in an environment (sub enclosures) that also affects the load on the amp, so in reality you're really never going to see that full 1200 watts.
Now keeping all of that in mind, go read these:
http://www.bcae1.com/capacitr.htm
http://www.glasswolf.net/caraudio/capacitors.html
http://www.glasswolf.net/caraudio/charging.html
http://www.betteraudio.com/geolemon/newmain/battcapalt/
http://www.bcae1.com/charging.htm
http://www.bcae1.com/chargin2.htm
http://www.bcae1.com/battiso.htm
http://www.glasswolf.net/caraudio/batteries.html
http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp

I've read all of the FAQ section threads that's why I don't try to directly argure the numbers. But since you have been so generous in providing information and I remain ignorant, I will go and read all of the links you provided, sincerely. At the least, there seems to be some differeing opinons even amongst true audiophiles.

Just trying to figure out if RF is completely full of stuff.

If their (simplistic) take on this peaks your interest, see page 6 of the link in the original thread where they directly address "battery and charging" in a short paragraph.

I will get to reading now

Thanks again

the links I provided on glasswolf.net are also in the FAQ section already so you could skip those.
geolemon's betteraudio page is well worth the read, as is anything on BACE1.com I can speak for both authors' knowledge, and while all of us have slightly varied views, the basics will always hold true because they boil down to basic electrical principles.

what this really boils down to is that there is no set in concrete way to know for sure if you'll have the right sized alternator. You can go for one that's big enough to guarantee enough current, but the reality is that'd be severe overkill for 99.9% of the people out there, so a waste of money, when you could do just as well upgrading to a smaller, but still higher output alternator over stock.

I don't know too many people who have a 200A alternator and still have issues with current demand. Unless you have some fully loaded SUV with a stock 180A alternator or something, 200A is usually enough to give your car, and system everything it needs and then some.

oh and regarding RF, I wouldn't try 1500 watts RMS on a 100A alternator.
if the 100A alternator is stock, figure your car needs a minimum of 60% of that, leaving 40A for the amplifier
a class D amp at good efficiency will draw 150A at full output for a 1500 watt rated output.

150 doesn't go into 40 very well.

however, again also remember that at a quarter of full output, that amp (audibly) will be putting out (1500/10=150 watts at half vol, and 150/10=15watts @ 1/4) about 15-30 watts continuously.
real fast drop in power there.

that's why it comes down to your listening habits, which nobody can predict.

GlassWolf wrote:oh and regarding RF, I wouldn't try 1500 watts RMS on a 100A alternator.
if the 100A alternator is stock, figure your car needs a minimum of 60% of that, leaving 40A for the amplifier
a class D amp at good efficiency will draw 150A at full output for a 1500 watt rated output.
150 doesn't go into 40 very well.
however, again also remember that at a quarter of full output, that amp (audibly) will be putting out (1500/10=150 watts at half vol, and 150/10=15watts @ 1/4) about 15-30 watts continuously.
real fast drop in power there.
that's why it comes down to your listening habits, which nobody can predict.

I'm still not use to people being so nice to take the time to address questions that must have been asked a million times

Thanks all :happy055: