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haha, shows how much i know. you can tweek crossover or they come set?

If you cross over your sub at 24db/oct. at 80 hz, your -6db point will be about 100 hz. due to the slopes, I think you want to have the fequencies cross at about a -6db downpoint. So, to use a 12db/oct. slope on the mid and have -6db point of 100 hz, you'd want to cross it over at about 130 hz.

Don't take any of that as gospel. For the most part, I think the math is right, the one thing I'm least confident in is the -6db downpoint. You're going to want to use some test equipment to make sure it all flows smoothly. Or use your ear. If it sounds good, run with it. If it sounds like somthing isn't right, play with it until it does.

I need to read more about crossovers.

depends ... if you're buying a component set, the crossovers that are included are preset. The most you can usualy change is an attenuation of the tweeter. If you're going with active crossovers, there's a bunch of adjustment you get with that. If you're building your own passives, it's all up to you.

yeah i already have my comp set. they sound good and all, but the bass that comes from the woofer is just not bass really! more like "doont" <--- its hard to try and type a sound

Well, what amplifier do you have pushing it? What crossover point are you using for it? What brand and model fo speaker is it? Is your door sound deadened? Do you have any gaps around the speaker at all? Are they mounted solidly? Do you have one mid out of phase with the other?

i have a jl 300/4 pushing them, the c-point is set at 200hz, the speakers are boston acoustics sl60. no my doors aren't deadened and no the speaker is screwed in securely. as far as phase i haven't looked at them under my door panels since they were put in

change your crossover point to about 120 and see how that works for you.

ok thanks for all your replys!

np, just happy to be able to help.