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So going active is worth it, although a little more pricey due to adding another amp and the active crossover, but in terms of flexibility and being able to easily change slopes and crossover frequencies?

That's what I was thinking, increasing the slope and get a little more out of the tweet, but even still, if I drop the tweek to 24 db at 2k, at what slope, freq. do I bring the mid in at? Do I keep the mid at the same slope or go with a 18 or even 12 db slope to help smooth out the 24 db slope the tweet is on? With active crossovers, is there going to be a phase issue? I will be running active crossovers, not passive. I guess it will be trial and error. Seems to me there aught to be more math behind it all and less guesswork. If you know you're cutting one speaker off at 24 db at 2k, at 1/4 octive the tweet will be down 6db, or at 1.75khz. So, to keep things right, do I cut the mid off at about 1.25khz at 24db so it's -6db point would be about 1.87khz and then smoth that out with the EQ? Am I on the right track here?

There is math to it, but it won't help you in a car.

Digital active crossovers won't have phase shift, electronic crossovers will, though.

I'd start with a 4th order slope on the midrange as well, and experiment with other slopes as well. Basically, do what gives the best FR without touching the EQ. That is generally the best way to go with car audio. I really can't give you anything specific simply because the results will be completely dependant on the axis of your midbasses, their response in your car, the tweeter rolloff, the phase response of the drivers in relation to their position. Just too much to take into account. I'd imagine you'd be bringing them in somewhere between 1-2k, but you never know. Could be lower than that.

ok, I'm starting to get it I guess. Hopefully I'll get my PC MLS system up and running and be able to get it all tuned up right. I guess I was looking at it this way ... use the crossovers to maximize and protect the speakers, then use the EQ to fix the peaks and dips. Anyway, I appreicate you taking the time and patience to discuss this with me. I can see it's going to be more trial and error than anything.

One more question ... what's the difference between digital active crossovers and electronic? Wouldn't they be the same thing? Or is electronic like a board with sliders or half din with knobs where as digital active would be what's built into head units and such?

Do you have any websites for the math for different crossover stuff? Home or car? Or even more general information? Or books that have tons of info on crossovers?

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/crosscalc.asp
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/crosscalc3.asp
http://www.selectproducts.com/calculators.html
http://www.pvconsultants.com/audio/targetgen/pcdc.htm
http://www.edasolutions.com/Groups/Tech ... csCalc.htm

Airforceyooper wrote:Hopefully I'll get my PC MLS system up and running and be able to get it all tuned up right

WinMLS 2004 by chance?

According to http://www.passivecrossover.com information, you need bi-polar/non-polar capacitors, preferably polypropylene or polyester ones. My question is, what companies sell quality electrical components for crossovers and what quality of component is required to make sure you don't lose quality, but don't hit the wall of "diminishing gains"?

Most any raw driver retailer (Madisound, Solen, Zalytron, etc.) carries crossover components.

Win MLS 2004 is on the list. I haven't decided yet. Any input?