Install: Am I crazy

Post by **GlassWolf** » Tue Jul 19, 2005 4:17 am

go with the qform prefabbed kick pods that hold a 6.5" separate set for about $200 instead. install them yourself or mount the z6s in them and pay the installer to stick them in the car for you.
have the shop wire up the amplifiers and head unit for you if need be
find someone else to build the box.. even fiberglass shouldn't be more than half that much, completely finished.
option; see if you can find a prefab fiberglass box for that size sub setup for the F body.. those cars are so common I'm surprised you can't buy the owners prefabbed by now..
that's handy when it comes to finding aftermarket parts

Darthness · Post by **Darthness** » Tue Jul 19, 2005 4:39 am

http://web.njit.edu/~cas1383/proj/kickpanels/index.htm

heres a decent tutorial for kick panels...

http://web.njit.edu/~cas1383/proj/main/ <rest of the site, good fg tutorials.

SSoonr · Post by **SSoonr** » Tue Jul 19, 2005 5:34 am

darthness, thanks for sending the tutorials...

On the kickpanel tutorial, he mentioned at the end that the sound stage was too low and he aimed the speakers wrong... What is the right way to aim them?

Am I going to notice that big of a difference from just mounting the speakers in the door and tweets on the apillar compared to kicks?

smoker · Post by **smoker** » Tue Jul 19, 2005 6:06 am

check with sinister he builds some nice fiberglass parts....id offer but i dont have a car to build off of and what with the new kid and all im not putting any extra time in at work right now

Post by **GlassWolf** » Tue Jul 19, 2005 2:22 pm

you want the kick pods to fire up toward your head, and across the car, so the passenger side is aimed at the driver's head, and the driver side is aimed at the passenger's head.
that'll give a good soundstage with separates in kick pods.

sinister audio · Post by **sinister audio** » Wed Jul 20, 2005 9:47 am

kick pods at my shop are between 250-350 painted, and the sub box probaly wouldnt be over 600 depending on what you had and how you wanted it im to lazy to go and look back at what you said you had.

Wed Jul 20, 2005 2:03 pm

wow, they want 1k for kick pods? I think mine were only around 200 or so.

the glass box in the back, does make it alot easier when you need to replace a tail light. much lighter then a MDF one. I just had to replace a tail light in mine not too long ago, and it's so easy now to get that box out. My old MDF boxes were always so heavy, and akward to get out of that hole in the back.

What type of shop is this? a major chain or smaller shop?

audiocr381ve · Post by **audiocr381ve** » Wed Jul 20, 2005 3:07 pm

Prefabs...

forget the kicks. Come on now, if your new to the game, you don't need to go and get custom kicks fabricated. Not worth it. Stick with the stock holes for now! Then once you really start getting to be an audio dork like me, start messing with those kick panels.

Whats the airspace on that prefab, and what do your subs require? Owners probably right. I bought a prefab when I was new to car audio a couple of years ago. It doesn't do the sub any service. I hope yours works out.

Post by **GlassWolf** » Wed Jul 20, 2005 5:19 pm

prefab qdorm kick pods are great. these are for front separates, not a prefab sub box.

properly aimed kick pods will yield a very good soundstage and imaging. They'll also keep the tweeter and midrange together, which you want. the farther apart they get, the more it's going to mess with imaging.

Wed Jul 20, 2005 6:07 pm

Are the newer Qforms better then the first generation ones?

I had those back when they first came out, and I didn't really like them that much. They didn't fit just right, and they seemed sorta flimsy. I used to hate it when the speaker grill cover thing would pop off all the time.

They must be stronger now, because I don't remember the first ones being able to hold anything larger then an 5.25