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Posted: Wed Jun 08, 2005 8:29 pm
by MrSo0h0o
yea, i checked out the specs on the xtant site, and i was surprised it was so cheap.. they guarantee it works too! hoping to get mine delivered soon! i judged by the good/bad/ugly list and since i have faith in our mods here, i went for it. and for that price, and 300wrms, cant beat it.

naughtytegroc: u can go with a mono or 2 chan amp essentially. usually mono is class D which in turn makes it more efficient. for fronts, you could be daring and get a nice 4 ch amp and "bi-amp" it so that each component gets its own channel. correct me if im wrong on any of this guys.. i want to try and help and im pretty sure this is correct if i have been taught right :p

Randy

Posted: Wed Jun 08, 2005 8:30 pm
by sinister audio
it dosnt really matter a 2 channel will work for your setup and so will a mono its just what ever floats your boat. what are your front speakers and how many whatts rms do they take?

Posted: Wed Jun 08, 2005 8:37 pm
by NaughtyTegRoc
I have JL's on the front....TR coax and a stock tweeter if that matters

Posted: Wed Jun 08, 2005 8:41 pm
by sinister audio
id unplug the stock tweeter because its will prbaly just hurt your SQ, amp you could use like the elevation audio dx80.4 or and arc amp or quite a few others but those are nice clean amps, you could go with hifonics amps to save on money. autotek amps are also another choice

Posted: Wed Jun 08, 2005 8:41 pm
by JeremyC
MrSo0h0o wrote: you could be daring and get a nice 4 ch amp and "bi-amp" it so that each component gets its own channel. correct me if im wrong on any of this guys.. i want to try and help and im pretty sure this is correct if i have been taught right :p

Randy

Yeah your right. The only thing you need to worry about is can my tweeter, and mid handle the power they are given, and if your runnng the factory crossover, is it bi-amp capable. If you can answer yes to both, then your good to go.

Posted: Wed Jun 08, 2005 8:43 pm
by MrSo0h0o
hey jeremyC, not sure if u saw, but i put up a question over in my thread about bi amping, was wonderin if u could take a glance and see.. thanks

Randy

Posted: Wed Jun 08, 2005 8:43 pm
by NaughtyTegRoc
The tweeters are actually already unhooked......had thought about having them wired back up but if it's not recommended once I get the amp then I will just leave them unhooked.

Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2005 3:22 am
by Ryan from Ohio
You need 300-350 WRMS @ 4 Ohms... This may get a tad expensive.

Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2005 4:42 am
by NaughtyTegRoc
Isn't all things that have to do with cars just a tad expensive? LOL I think it's all never-ending!

Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2005 5:07 am
by Ryan from Ohio
NaughtyTegRoc wrote:Isn't all things that have to do with cars just a tad expensive? LOL I think it's all never-ending!
Usually the woman sitting in it is more expensive :attitude

Hehe

I wouldnt reccomend a mono amo for this setup. Mono amps are usually Class D or equivalent. These amps usually put out rated power at 2 or 1 Ohm. When you back the amp up to 4 Ohm the vlaue you usually see by buying a Class D is gone.

A good 4 Channel amp is the key here I think. The ARC Audio KAR 600.4 would be perfect for you. Your comps can get 100 WRMS each and your sub 300 WRMS. Like I said before its a little pricey. But this is the type of amp you buy once and never buy another one. It the kind that when you put it in, you can rest assured its high quality!

Not sure of the MSRP or "street" price on it though. We got two ARC dealers here, unfortuneatley they cant sell to you unless you go and pick it up!