seriously... .5 distortion and .000000000005 distortion... lol how can you even tell???
Back in the old days (1982) It was FTC mandated for the manufacturer to provide a comprehensive single criteria power specification. However, with the de-regulation craze of the 80's, this requirement was dropped. This left it up to manufacturers to determine how to advertise and display their product specifications with no commonly accepted standard for emasurement.
I'll attempt to explain how THD is measured.
Of a signal, the ratio of (a) the sum of the powers of all harmonic frequencies above the fundamental frequency to (b) the power of the fundamental frequency.
The THD is usually expressed in percent as distortion factor or in dB as distortion attenuation.
Measurements for calculating the THD are made at the output of a device under specified conditions.
Now, there are several ways to measure THD that are commonly used. One is defined by the FCC, and another by the EIA.
Years ago a number of papers were written on human hearing and harmonic distortion. What they found was that the human ear is very insensitive to harmonic distortion that is close to the main signal, and increases in sensitivity to harmonic distortion further away from the main signal. The second harmonic, which is an octave away from the main signal, is the hardest to hear, especially when you are driving a loudspeaker.
The best estimates that I can give you is that we can detect somewhere between 1% and 3% of second order harmonic distortion. Which is why you can't hear it. If the sum total distortions were farther away from the main signal you would be able to hear it. Some solid state designs can have pretty low distortion but they can get to be aggravating after awhile. That's because the distortion generated by the amp is further away from the main signal where the ear is more sensitive.
Without going into too much detail, there are many factors in how THD can be measured, including but not limited to:
is the signal being used to measure THD a notch frequency, of full 20Hz-20KHz at equal power?
Over what unit period of time is THD being measured?
What kind of signal is being used to measure the distortion?
Point being, very few manufacturers specify this data, so THD is helpful at times, but again, not something to base a purchase on.
Remember, some of the best amplifiers in the world have an advertised THD of between 1% to 10%.
It's commonly agreed that distortion below 1% is inaudible, and in a car, below 10% is inaudible to the human ear.
There are two widely accepted ways of measuring THD. One is mandated by the FCC, and is the best way to measure distortion for car audio amplifiers. The other method is defined by the EIA and is far less acceptable for accurate audio amplifier comparisons.
So long as you have proper headroom, you'll never know the difference between 2 amps that are setup exactly the same.
Not always the case. A class D amplifier for example, spikes drastically in distortion levels as you approach peak output for the amplifier. This is a trait Class A and A/B amplifiers don't suffer to such an exaggerated extent. A class D amplifier also has such a poor switching speed and design that anything reproduced above the first three octaves or so will be so distorted as to be unusable by most people for audio purposes.
That aside however,there is a lot more to an amplifier than a single spec such as THD+N. Reliability and logevity are characterized in amplifiers of higher quality, as are tighter tolerances and superior designs resulting in a more stable power supply that, as you noted, will provide much better headroom, and a more efficient end result product.
If you really want to know what makes a good amplifier, read the FAQ section on amplifier basics. This one:
http://www.wickedcases.com/caraudio/amplifiers.html
Sounding louder is objective and easily judged. Sounding better is entirely subjective to a point, but improvements in factors like damping, driver control, and response curve are very audible many times with very simple changes to a system. What that's worth to you however, is entirely up to you and you alone.
If you think an Alphasonik or BOSS amplifier is just as good as a PPI Art series or Orion SX amplifier though, you're welcome to stick with those, but as it is said, a chain is only as strong as it's weakest link, and I'd rather have a strong system throughout, that I have faith in, to know I'm going to have a good end result. If you skimp, it'll show up at some point, and cost you more than you initially saved more times than not.
At laest I offered very objective reasoning for the cost of the PPI amplifier. Good internals for an amplifier of that size aren't cheap, even today. If you don't think a 1200 watt class AB amp is worth $600, that's your call, but none of your arguments really have much foundation, or much accuracy. Your post struck me as someone trying to rationalize having cheap equipment by just baselessly bashing something that's built extremely well from the ground up. The founders of Orion started as RF engineers. The founders of PPI were from the original PPI group. Considering those three companies reigned supreme for over a decade in the car audio world with nobody able to make products that could come close to their performance in that era for a similar price, they must have done something right.
The entire reason PPI was formed was due to a strife between the engineers in Orion over power supply topologies. Orion stuck to unregulated or loosely regulated fixed duty cycle power supplies, and PPI, as the name implies, went with a PWM regulated power supply with a variable duty cycle, which although is fairly common now in more expensive amplifiers thanks to SMT being prevalent now, was unheard of in the car audio world back in 1988. Using a power supply and internal components of this caliber at the time was groundbreaking, and state of the art, as their motto said.
"Precision Power - Absolutely state of the art."