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That's a tough call since the rotor was warped so bad. How long have you driven the car since the new rotors, calipers, and pads? If I were you, I'd drive it a little and use the brakes as much as possible, if the noise persists then it's not because the pads haven't seated yet. Disc brakes will always rub a little bit, but not to the point that there is a lot of rolling resistance or noise. The caliper may not be sliding properly due to guide bolts or support key (whatever your car uses). The master cylinder bore could be rough or corroded, or the compensating ports could be plugged, or the pushrod out of adjustment. Your pedal could be binding. Did you replace your brake hardware when you replaced all the calipers, rotors, and pads? Last question, does this apply to all 4 brakes, or just the front brakes. I can't remember this, but is that car 4 wheel disc, or front disc and rear drum?

Sounds like a Chevy 3.1 motor...

Right?

Im going to try an remember what all I had to do to mine...

If so look down on the block where the distributor *USED* to go. That plug finally wears loose after awhile and probably needs to be replaced... This will drop oil pressure when it happens.


Computer, the stupid computer went out... Cost about $125 for the actual comp and $175 to install it....

PCV valve, like $5 or less

Oxygen sensor.... Will help it run leaner...

Im going to ask my uncle if he remember what was wrong when my car was doing that. That darned Beretta did this same thing with the loping idle...

From the last post you gave, it looks like the calipers weren't sliding correctly. The brake wear should be even on both sides, your hardware was either worn, bent, or just not lubricated correctly. Silicone is the preferred lubricant for caliper hardware, BTW.

front disk rear drum, I lubed em all really good, there isnt resistance just a slight shhhhhhh sound. The rotors are cheap too advance auto ones. Thats why they are warping so easy. I think the breaks will be ok, i need to add a little fluid though. I have a coil pack not a distributer. All my plugs are ok.

k, cool, thanks man, I know the car also has engine noise like a hmmmm how to describe it. Jiggly sort of rattling when ur drivin it, my cousin said it probably needs a valve job, at 135,000 miles it probably does.

135K thats nothing for newer motors, a valve job maybe if it was a 78 ford 302 but not a newer car. i have seen cars go well over 250K with out even being close to a valve job.

hmmmm wonder why it sounds so crappy, just worn engine components?

3.1s have always had a ruff sounding engine and nosie to it

Just because the car is newer doesn't mean it won't need a valve job. Your car may need something as simple as a lash adjustment (if the lash is adjustable), or the timing may be off. If the car is SOHC (can't remember if the 3.1 is or isn't, I think it's pushrod, though), then you would need a shim adjustment more than likely. Newer cars have their fair share of maintenance requirements, such as timing belts, the unavoidable CV axle repair, tune-ups, and of course PM as well. Most cars, Hondas, Toyotas, and Nissans included, still die by 200k miles on average.

yeah, hopefully this will live till 200k, it may need tranny work but its not that bad, I accidently put it in park a while ago when i was doing like 2-3 mph lol. It just kicks some if ur at 30 and u tap the gas, which may be normal my damn shop teacher was too busy screwing his students to teach us. It hesitates when you start goin from a stop sometimes then kicks in all hard and fast lol. The engine noise sorta sounds like a wookie if that helps lol. The only thing major right now is the freakin shocks, I sit down and the car looks like a low rider, no im not a huge fat ass lol and the rear is sagging atleast 6 inches lol