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damn it
damn it
about 10 hours worth of work buildin this shit and and the subs are too close together and hit each other when they move causing it to sound like shit.
my alternator is starting to drain running both amps so i disconected 1 untili can get the money for a new alternator and now there isnt enough power for both subs...
ps. definatly porting the boxes..
my alternator is starting to drain running both amps so i disconected 1 untili can get the money for a new alternator and now there isnt enough power for both subs...
ps. definatly porting the boxes..
i bought 2 single sealed boxes, then built a box under and behind them to make them into 1 single box, looks like a bandpass box that is missing the plexiglass and ports. it was as ez and taking it apart and speading the boxes out, but it took a good hour or so to do. i was afraid i was gonna have to rebuild the hoel thing but luckly i gave myself enough room for mistakes that i did have to rebuild. theres pics of it on the installition board or wutever its called, under sub mounts.
i also played with some knobs and shit and its got enough power to work now, i had to turn the gain all the way down, the boost was already off, then turn the frequincy to 1/4 of a turn and then on the head unit set the subwoofer output at +2
now heres another problem i have.
they are so precision its rediculous, they dont drag out. its just bang-bang- bang, instead of the normal bangggggggggbanggggggggbanggggg
i didnt weigh them or nuthing to see how accurate it is, but the advertisement on the box they came in claimed the magnets on them are 20 lbs each. id guess the complete sub weighs close to 60 lbs.
i was gonna port them just to make some of the air hit the back of my seats so u feal the bass better, but will porting them also help it to drag out a little?
i also played with some knobs and shit and its got enough power to work now, i had to turn the gain all the way down, the boost was already off, then turn the frequincy to 1/4 of a turn and then on the head unit set the subwoofer output at +2
now heres another problem i have.
they are so precision its rediculous, they dont drag out. its just bang-bang- bang, instead of the normal bangggggggggbanggggggggbanggggg
i didnt weigh them or nuthing to see how accurate it is, but the advertisement on the box they came in claimed the magnets on them are 20 lbs each. id guess the complete sub weighs close to 60 lbs.
i was gonna port them just to make some of the air hit the back of my seats so u feal the bass better, but will porting them also help it to drag out a little?
-
smoker
- Master of My Domain
- Posts: 4126
- Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2005 9:00 am
- Location: florence, ky
- Contact:
dude, what kind of subs are they? if i understand what you have done you have the subs facing each other right? better watch out for wave cancellation if your gonna do that...also porting them is not as easy as cutting a hole and dropping in a port....typically your box needs to be bigger and be designed to be ported....the lack of boom in your setup may be a result of the subs positioning....try firing them back or forwards and see if that helps....you may need to build a box for them either sealed or ported depending on the subs
Well even though I posted on the other thread about the diamond plate, I never took the time to actually look at the design (sorry, tryin to get caught up
)... But now that I have... that is way to little airspace for those subs (if they are as you stated on the other post MA 18" HKs)... Those things need alot of air and you are constricting the hell out of them as it is in sealed boxes... If you throw ports in it... it will only make it worse.
-Michael
http://www.teamcargodzinc.com
Hear It, See It, Feel It, Punch It!
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http://www.teamcargodzinc.com
Hear It, See It, Feel It, Punch It!
And Proud Sponsor of
Team Wolf Pack Audio
Authorized Dealer
-
solacedagony
- Master of My Domain
- Posts: 2171
- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2004 9:34 am
- Location: Phillipsburg, NJ
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the goldstar for the day goes to bill!!!
i wasnt payin atetion and the factory setting had the bass boost turned all the way up and turned the "loud" setting 1/2 way up.
maybe i shoulda read the owners manual on my H.U. haha
shut off the bass boost and the loud off, set my trebble at +4 and the subs at -2 and its tits...
now all i need is a new alternator so i can run both amps and get it a little bit louder.
its a 6channel amp and its bridged at 1600 watts (which definatly isnt acurate) running both subs.
i broke them in with a 2 channel 600 watt amp, and they seem to be playin just slightly louder tht the 600 watt amp did.
i wasnt payin atetion and the factory setting had the bass boost turned all the way up and turned the "loud" setting 1/2 way up.
maybe i shoulda read the owners manual on my H.U. haha
shut off the bass boost and the loud off, set my trebble at +4 and the subs at -2 and its tits...
now all i need is a new alternator so i can run both amps and get it a little bit louder.
its a 6channel amp and its bridged at 1600 watts (which definatly isnt acurate) running both subs.
i broke them in with a 2 channel 600 watt amp, and they seem to be playin just slightly louder tht the 600 watt amp did.
"dude, what kind of subs are they? "
ma1800hk
maybe u could help me, does ur shop carry ma audio?
my insurance company called me on friday and said they
cant find a retail price on them so at the moment they
arent insured until we can find out a value on them. ive
searched all over the internet, ive only found ma1800xl
and i think the other was m1800me. im starting to wonder
if they are just xl series and not hk, since the xl is
advertised as a competiton sub.
"Use this also as a lesson to measure before you throw things
together. You obviously don't want your subs hitting each other"
bad measurements are the reson i bought 18's instead of 15's
haha.
ma1800hk
maybe u could help me, does ur shop carry ma audio?
my insurance company called me on friday and said they
cant find a retail price on them so at the moment they
arent insured until we can find out a value on them. ive
searched all over the internet, ive only found ma1800xl
and i think the other was m1800me. im starting to wonder
if they are just xl series and not hk, since the xl is
advertised as a competiton sub.
"Use this also as a lesson to measure before you throw things
together. You obviously don't want your subs hitting each other"
bad measurements are the reson i bought 18's instead of 15's
haha.
Ummmmm.. are you powering these subs with the 6 channel "4000 watt Rainbows" you got from England?
http://www.caraudiocentral.net/forums/s ... php?t=7329
If thats the case, my guess is that you're not going to need another alternator, at least not yet. IIRC you said each amp had 4 25 amp fuses. At the most these things would together draw a total of 200 amps if all channels were being driven into their lowest rated load. Since I imagine you're just utilizing the sub channel for the 18's and front channels for your components the actual current draw will be much less.
I was a bit surprised as well at how small those boxes looked for 18's, but while looking for your sub I found specs on two Ma 18's:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio ... ctID=17902
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio ... ctID=17905
Both recommend 2.5 ft^3 sealed which ain't a whole lot for 18's. What have you got there? I was going to recommend maybe just using one in a ported enclosure, but we have no idea what equipment you're running. You need to find out exactly what amps and subs you have and how much airspace is in each of those enclosures if you want good help.
Sounds to me like you like what you hear, but I'd hold off spending money on an alternator quite yet. Unless you uprgade your amp(s) I'm not sure you'll need it. In fact if those enclosures are big enough I'd say an amp upgrade WOULD give you the best return on your investment.
http://www.caraudiocentral.net/forums/s ... php?t=7329
If thats the case, my guess is that you're not going to need another alternator, at least not yet. IIRC you said each amp had 4 25 amp fuses. At the most these things would together draw a total of 200 amps if all channels were being driven into their lowest rated load. Since I imagine you're just utilizing the sub channel for the 18's and front channels for your components the actual current draw will be much less.
I was a bit surprised as well at how small those boxes looked for 18's, but while looking for your sub I found specs on two Ma 18's:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio ... ctID=17902
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio ... ctID=17905
Both recommend 2.5 ft^3 sealed which ain't a whole lot for 18's. What have you got there? I was going to recommend maybe just using one in a ported enclosure, but we have no idea what equipment you're running. You need to find out exactly what amps and subs you have and how much airspace is in each of those enclosures if you want good help.
Sounds to me like you like what you hear, but I'd hold off spending money on an alternator quite yet. Unless you uprgade your amp(s) I'm not sure you'll need it. In fact if those enclosures are big enough I'd say an amp upgrade WOULD give you the best return on your investment.

