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Installation Problem

Post all your general car audio questions here.
Robert Wollenberg
Posts: 1386
Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2005 4:45 am
Location: Abilene, Texas

Post by Robert Wollenberg »

How about I used to install boss crap! I hated every minute of it. There were nights I couldn't sleep knowing I contributed to the horrible audio systems in town. I still feel the guilt to this day. If I could track down every customer I ever did that to and appologize, I would. But you have to understand, it wasn't my shop. It wasn't my shop I tell you. And this will be the first time I've ever admitted this to anybody, but, I used to install alarm-in-a-can for them too. You know, the two wire install jobs. :( ( I confess. I did it. But I'd never do it again. It's the most terrible feeling at the end of the day knowing you took someone's hard earned money for some crap like that. I'm so ashamed. :( (
lost05
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Posts: 78
Joined: Sun Aug 07, 2005 5:46 pm
Location: Indianapolis IN

Ive seen it work

Post by lost05 »

I know that if you splice from one of the speakers in the car that it will work..... prolly not the best idea but if you do it right it works. I have a friend who knew nothing about car audio and went to hh gregg and thats how they hooked up his amp with him having a stock radio. Make sure you hook up right and left channels correctly though if your trying to do it that way. I would recommed getting an aftermarket HU if you are goin to install subs and an amp though cause its definantly worth being able to control your subwoofers
Bwcad1
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Location: Ohio

Post by Bwcad1 »

thats still crap dont do it that way there are so many things wrong with it. and the installers at best buy/hh greg are crap for the most part.
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Robert Wollenberg
Posts: 1386
Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2005 4:45 am
Location: Abilene, Texas

Post by Robert Wollenberg »

It can work, but it's not right. It's like using a piece of 2x4 as a driveshaft. You might get it to work for a while, but it's not right and it isn't going to work very well or for very long. There are right and wrong ways to do things and what you're trying to do just isn't right. Even the linelevel converters, noise filters, etc. are just bandaids for not doing the job right. Sure, you can spice into the speaker leads, insert a linelevel converter and connect an amp up that way. But I doubt you're going to get anybody's blessing from here in doing so.

As for why you can't get your setup to work, Do you have a premium stock system? Have you gotten a line-level converter yet? Is the amp hooked up right? Did it work before you started messing around with it? If you ran the amplified signal after the factory amp into the linelevel input of the amp, there's probably a chance you fried the input to the amp. Somebody check me on that one. Is your L7 dvc and at what impedence? What load are you presenting the amp with? Maybe you tried hooking up two 2 ohm voice coils in paralel and cooked your pioneer amp which I'm sure can't handle a 1 ohm bridged load. Is the amp even bridgeable? Is that how your trying to run it? Where are you getting the power for the amp from? The battery or somewhere under the dash? I've seen that plenty of times. After messing with this, does the factory stereo still work as it should without the sub? Are you sure the sub isn't blown? Where do you have the remote to the amp tied into? Is it even turning on?
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GlassWolf
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Post by GlassWolf »

I think there actually is a Legacy/Pyramid type company called "mosfet" out there.. total crap, but that aside, MOSFET also refers to the type of transistors used most commonly in power supplies.
MOSFET = metal oxide semi-conductor (or silicon) field effect transistor.
There are generally two types of transistors used in audio amps.
MOSFET and Bi-Polar
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