RE Audio SXX12D2 ported.

Ryan from Ohio · Post by **Ryan from Ohio** » Sat Apr 03, 2010 3:38 pm

I use Tightbond II Works excellent providing your surfaces are flat/perpendicular.

If that cant be achieved liquid nails would be my next choice.

callandor2k · Post by **callandor2k** » Sat Apr 03, 2010 5:02 pm

Bwcad1 wrote:tightbond II, liquidnails works but not as well and as far as gorilla glue you have to wet all glued surfaces and mdf and water don't mix

I have always used tightbond for every thing wood to wood wood to anything else I use PL premium

Which Gorilla Glue you talking about? The regular Gorilla glue does yes. But not Gorilla Wood Glue.

Gorilla Wood Glue is a solvent free polyvinyl acetate (PVA). And passes ANSI/HPVA Type II water resistance. Which is the same as Titebond II.

Where as Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue passes the ANSI/HPVA Type I.

Bwcad1 · Post by **Bwcad1** » Sat Apr 03, 2010 6:04 pm

If you want to use gorilla glue that bad go for it. No one is stopping you just giving you opinions.

I don't see a reason to spend the extra money on gorilla glue. Tightbond II has always worked great for me and i have had some of the loudest cars around.

1 gallon of Tightbond II 17.64
1 gallon of Gorilla Wood glue 62.74

1 quart of Titebond 6.90
1 quart of gorilla glue 15.56

callandor2k · Post by **callandor2k** » Sat Apr 03, 2010 7:36 pm

Bwcad1 wrote:If you want to use gorilla glue that bad go for it. No one is stopping you just giving you opinions.

I don't see a reason to spend the extra money on gorilla glue. Tightbond II has always worked great for me and i have had some of the loudest cars around.

1 gallon of Tightbond II 17.64
1 gallon of Gorilla Wood glue 62.74

1 quart of Titebond 6.90
1 quart of gorilla glue 15.56

I never said I wanted to use Gorilla glue that bad. Obviously you missed what I had said. You stated "gorilla glue you have to wet all glued surfaces". Then I stated "The regular Gorilla glue does yes. But not Gorilla Wood Glue."

And the original reference was this....

"But that does not show the Gorilla Wood Glue. Only Gorilla glue. So I wonder how well the Gorilla wood glue holds up against Tightbond III and Liquid Nails."

Considering I already have Gorilla Wood Glue, there will not be any additional expense. But I did pick up a 4oz bottle of titebond III (they were out of titebond II) to compare the glued joints to see which holds up better.

And as far as pricing goes. Around where I am at there is nearly a 2$ price difference on just the 4oz bottle. And gorilla wood glue is the cheaper of the two. But then again that is my local hardware store. Which my towns population is roughly 1100 and only 1 small hardware store. And the nearest Lowe's or Menard's is roughly 1 - 1.5 hours away, depending on which one you go to. And the nearest Wal-Mart is roughly half an hour away. So they can kinda set the prices as they see fit, within reason that is.

Some times I hate living in a small town. Everything except the gas station closes at 5pm and it closes at 9pm. Kinda sucks if ya get the late night munchies. :happy013:

Bwcad1 · Post by **Bwcad1** » Sat Apr 03, 2010 7:58 pm

I didn't miss anything. Just seems like you show some bias for it. I don't really care what you use to be honest I'm just expressing what worked for me. Never used gorilla "wood" glue and have no reason 2. If the glue is cheaper than by god use it up.

I really wonder y gorilla glue would be cheaper. I have quite a few buddies out there ill have to ask them about it.

Bwcad1 · Post by **Bwcad1** » Sat Apr 03, 2010 8:03 pm

anyways back to your box. making the front baffle have the cutout for the port would just break pretty easily. Ive tried it with bad results lol. i would just leave it off. dont worry about corner guards just hit it with a belt sander and knock the hard edge off and you will be fine.

callandor2k · Post by **callandor2k** » Sat Apr 03, 2010 8:28 pm

Bwcad1 wrote:I didn't miss anything. Just seems like you show some bias for it. I don't really care what you use to be honest I'm just expressing what worked for me. Never used gorilla "wood" glue and have no reason 2. If the glue is cheaper than by god use it up.

I really wonder y gorilla glue would be cheaper. I have quite a few buddies out there ill have to ask them about it.

As I said it's a small hardware store. So it may not sell well so they dropped the price to get rid of it. I don't know. But titebond III was $5.98 for a 4oz bottle. And the gorilla wood glue was $3.98. Only reason I have gorilla wood glue is because my son wanted to build some bird houses. So i picked up the cheapest wood glue I could find. Don't worry I nailed it together as well as using glue on it (just to be safe). I have always used Elmer s Carpenter's Glue until I bought the Gorilla wood glue a month or so ago.

On a side note Gorilla Super glue works a hell of a lot better than the other super glues that I have tried though.

Bwcad1 wrote:anyways back to your box. making the front baffle have the cutout for the port would just break pretty easily. Ive tried it with bad results lol. i would just leave it off. dont worry about corner guards just hit it with a belt sander and knock the hard edge off and you will be fine.

Ya I'll figure something out for the port area. I have some corner guards I need to use up anyway. But I have not decided on whether I want to use them or not.

I wish I had a belt sander. It's on my wish list along with a table saw, impact screw gun, nail gun and a few other tools.

I may have to splurge and get a cheap table saw first, and then the sub.

As of now I am using a home made jig to cut straight lines with my circular saw. AND IT SUCKS!!!

But it works.

Bwcad1 · Post by **Bwcad1** » Sun Apr 04, 2010 8:26 am

Spend the money on a good circ saw and 8ft level and 2 clamps.

Cheap table saws wont cut any better than what i just told you will. Im sure most would agree.

I build quite a few boxes and still use my Milwuakee Circ saw and level. IT beats the shit out of the cheap table saw i use. its just easier to use and makes just as straight cuts.

callandor2k · Post by **callandor2k** » Sun Apr 04, 2010 9:18 am

So what about the RE SXX sub. They a good SQ/SQL sub?

callandor2k · Post by **callandor2k** » Sun Apr 18, 2010 8:23 am

So I am about ready to build the box. Before I actually build it... Is this box going to be ok with the RE SXX or is it back to the drawing board? Or would you recommend another sub for this enclosure?

And would this be ok for an Alpine SWR-1222D till I can afford to purchace the SXX.