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Overcurrent Light on... How do I fix it??

All questions related to amplifier installation and troubleshooting.
Ryan from Ohio
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Post by Ryan from Ohio »

Voltage issues, tuning issues, weak component in the amp...
-Ryan
www.caraudiocentral.net - Your #1 Car Audio Resource on the Net!
MrSo0h0o
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Location: Whitestone, NY

Post by MrSo0h0o »

Ok I had the chance to uninstall the amp and sub and took some pics..
For the sub, I did not see anything visually wrong with the voice coils, but is only measuring .5 ohms of resistance at the coils. What does this mean? FYI it is a dual 4 ohm sub.
Here are the pics of the amp guts.. I have a feeling it is now a nice paperweight.. take a look:
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MrSo0h0o
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Post by MrSo0h0o »

pics cont'd:

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Ryan from Ohio
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Post by Ryan from Ohio »

A dual 4 sub should measure around 3.6 Ohms DC.

Ya you got fried components there. Also the first picture looks like the large cap to the right is bulged.

Both are paperweights.
-Ryan
www.caraudiocentral.net - Your #1 Car Audio Resource on the Net!
Bwcad1
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Post by Bwcad1 »

if both coils were measuring .5 and you ran it parallel you ran the amp at .25 ohm = HOLY BAD NEWS!

Sucks bro!

I always check my subs with a dmm now just to be safe before installing them.
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ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
Ryan from Ohio
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Post by Ryan from Ohio »

Bwcad1 wrote:if both coils were measuring .5 and you ran it parallel you ran the amp at .25 ohm = HOLY BAD NEWS!

Sucks bro!

I always check my subs with a dmm now just to be safe before installing them.

If the subs are measuring .5 per coil and they are supposed to be 4's theres a problem.

Looks like your subs did a dead short and in turn fried the amp.

Put the DMM on the sub and press the cone in and out.
-Ryan
www.caraudiocentral.net - Your #1 Car Audio Resource on the Net!
MrSo0h0o
Senior Member
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Location: Whitestone, NY

Post by MrSo0h0o »

Thanks for all your help guys.. I figured that both of them were toast when the overcurrent protection light came on and the sub ended up measuring .5ohm resistance.

Bill: Like Ryan said, I didnt install them in a .25ohm configuration lol. They must have shorted and something fried, giving me the weird reading...


So i guess the next question is.... what should I buy now??

I have been looking around and I see a set of 10" RE RE series for $9x.00. Are they still as good of quality as they used to be? Also, how much power do you think they can handle? I was looking at the JBL GTO 1201.1, but thats almost double the RMS power. How are Precision Power DCX amps? Any recommendations for an amp and sub(s)?
Ryan from Ohio
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Post by Ryan from Ohio »

The RE series is still so so. Nothing spectacular or anything. Just decent cheap subs.

All boils down to budget.
-Ryan
www.caraudiocentral.net - Your #1 Car Audio Resource on the Net!
MrSo0h0o
Senior Member
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Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2004 7:58 pm
Location: Whitestone, NY

Post by MrSo0h0o »

Ryan from Ohio wrote:The RE series is still so so. Nothing spectacular or anything. Just decent cheap subs.
All boils down to budget.
Can they still handle more than they are rated for? so, 2x175RMS= 350RMS.. How much can they take?
Ryan from Ohio
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Post by Ryan from Ohio »

Depends on application as always.

Sure they are rated at a safe RMS and can take more.

I wouldnt press my luck, 200 WRMS will get them moving with ease.
-Ryan
www.caraudiocentral.net - Your #1 Car Audio Resource on the Net!
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