If you're accustomed to using a lot of bass boost and its center frequency is close to the resonant frequency of the driver/enclosure combo then you're going to get a lot of excursion from that driver. A sealed driver already tends towards max excursion around this frequency. 600 watts + bass boost may be more than enough to make that thing "slap" and possibly fail mechanically.
If you're looking for a ton of bass getting a large, ported enclosure built would definitely be the way to go. In the meantime I'd lay off the "boost".
-Fishy
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My Comp VR Is Gunna Blow
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GlassWolf
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his enclosure is about 1.5cu ft which is fine.
he could go to a 2cu ft box and port it which would increase output considerably in that truck if desired, as well as increasing his power handling for the driver.
as far as power of speaker and amp, here's the deal.
you have a dual 4 ohm sub with coils in parallel from what I read. On your mono amp that's a 2 ohm load which means 600 watts RMS at full output from the amp (chances are you're not going to run it at absolute full output though so not as big a concern.)
When matching a speaker to an amp, figure out teh load the speaker(s) will present based on coil configuration and wiring and number of drivers used per channel.
then find an amp that puts out about 80% of the speakers' rated power handling at the given load. This is a general rule of thumb and there are always exceptions though.
remember a speaker's power handling is a thermal rating of how much heat the coils can handle without essentially melting. RMS or continuous means just that. The amount of power the speaker can handle for long periods of use. Peak or Max ratings on a speaker are momentary bursts like burping a system at SPL events. More than a brief few seconds of this power and teh coils will turn into a fried cheese sandwich.
This is why you generally don't want to give more power to a speaker than it's rated to handle unless you really know what you're doing as things like enclosure type and how loud you use the system will affect the power handling of the speaker beyond the rated values.
he could go to a 2cu ft box and port it which would increase output considerably in that truck if desired, as well as increasing his power handling for the driver.
as far as power of speaker and amp, here's the deal.
you have a dual 4 ohm sub with coils in parallel from what I read. On your mono amp that's a 2 ohm load which means 600 watts RMS at full output from the amp (chances are you're not going to run it at absolute full output though so not as big a concern.)
When matching a speaker to an amp, figure out teh load the speaker(s) will present based on coil configuration and wiring and number of drivers used per channel.
then find an amp that puts out about 80% of the speakers' rated power handling at the given load. This is a general rule of thumb and there are always exceptions though.
remember a speaker's power handling is a thermal rating of how much heat the coils can handle without essentially melting. RMS or continuous means just that. The amount of power the speaker can handle for long periods of use. Peak or Max ratings on a speaker are momentary bursts like burping a system at SPL events. More than a brief few seconds of this power and teh coils will turn into a fried cheese sandwich.
This is why you generally don't want to give more power to a speaker than it's rated to handle unless you really know what you're doing as things like enclosure type and how loud you use the system will affect the power handling of the speaker beyond the rated values.
GlassWolf (aka KikiTheCat)
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audiobass10
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Didn't say the box was undersized. What I meant was it's small compared to a larger ported box, which would offer more ouput from the sub. 600 watts to that sub for daily driving should be fine. Remember to set the gains correctly and by all means, lay off the bass boost. I didn't realize you had a truck, so figure out how much space you have and make the box accordingly. I'm sure you're gunna lack space, but if you can squeeze out 3 cubes that would be perfect. 2 cubes would work, but getting the absolute most out of that sub is gunna require some space.lotas wrote:he doesnt have a small sealed box though, i think someone said his box is like 1 cubic ft. over what it should be.
But yeah, I dont think you should worry about whether to go ported or not until you get this setup up and running.
Yeah, thats a good idea, to take the amp to be tested.
the compVR's will take significantly more power than rated.
In the proper enclosure.
In this instance... the enclosure is the problem, CVR's dont get all that loud sealed, and power handling dips very significantly.
I have run *much* more power to a single CVR 12 and they handle it fine, the coils are very strong but there isnt enough xmax to really throw good power at it.
That being said... I've actually shipped a CVR/box to a guy that bought a kx600.1 and he's perfectly happy with it.
IMO, get/build another box and you will be surprised how much louder it gets.
If you arent sending it any power and its blowing up, something is seriously wrong somewhere else... but ya said its moving "alot" - so that *shouldnt* be the issue.
You either need a smaller sealed box, or what I would reccomend a good ported box.
In the proper enclosure.
In this instance... the enclosure is the problem, CVR's dont get all that loud sealed, and power handling dips very significantly.
I have run *much* more power to a single CVR 12 and they handle it fine, the coils are very strong but there isnt enough xmax to really throw good power at it.
That being said... I've actually shipped a CVR/box to a guy that bought a kx600.1 and he's perfectly happy with it.
IMO, get/build another box and you will be surprised how much louder it gets.
If you arent sending it any power and its blowing up, something is seriously wrong somewhere else... but ya said its moving "alot" - so that *shouldnt* be the issue.
You either need a smaller sealed box, or what I would reccomend a good ported box.
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NorthQuad
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The Kicker tech got back to me today in an e-mail. He said the 600.1 is a bit too much power for the CVR12" but that it is possible to have both of them work together just fine without either of them being damaged. He suggests that amps be matched up to equal power handling subs. He also suggested getting a 12" L5 or an L7 or another Comp VR sub. The problem with getting a second CVR would be that the the ohm load would not be correct on the amp. He wanted my area in which I lived so that he could hook me up with another dealer that would be better suited to help with the issue. He also wanted the name of the dealer so that he could better train them than what they are with their products. I hate stirring up trouble for anyone but frick if he had just given me what I wanted in the first place it would been a different storey. I know damn well that I would have the Bass I wanted and not have to worry about turning down an amp so much it's not worth paying the tab for. I mean come on a block and a half and pop goes the Kicker. All of this was makeing me feel like the bad guy. I should just let kicker know, then they can tell him to stop matching up big amps with smaller subs. Then he would have less guy's coming back saying my sub sounds like it's blown. I know it wouldn't take me long to figure it out.
once again i will reinstate i have the subs mentioned... the cvrs and in my truck RIGHT NOW i have a planet audio tt2250d... yes 2250watts rms @ 1 ohm... i'm using dual 4 ohm subs witch comes out to 1125 watts per sub.. i have the gains moderate but still i'm saying i do not believe the problem is that they put a 600.1 on a cvr.. something else is wrong.. kicker is going to tell you not to go over their ratings so you'll have less of a chance of blowing them (think political answer)