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Ryan from Ohio wrote:Well depends.
I know the real old Xtants often overheated and had issues when pushed hard. R Bay usually fetches a reasonable price providing you have good feedback and a lot of pics/info.

Thanks
These are second gens 2200xi, with the better heat dissipation, not the original 2200is

CaptainPioneer wrote:there crap give them to me for free... lol

sure for free money

Hey guys I sold my car and I have a couple of Xtant 2200ix in great shape (They're original Xtant not the new crap from MTX) that I will be putting up for auction on eBay or try to sell locally, but I’m not sure what is the going rate for these amps these day I’ve searched but it seems they’re prett...

Browsing trough the CDT website I read this: Good main Tweeter placement: Always make sure the main component system Tweeter is mounted “close to the mid woofer” if possible angled toward the dome light/sunroof area. “Never” mount the main component Tweeter away from the mid woofer and or high up on...

I went with True RTA

thanks guys I found what I needed

Hi
I was wondering if you guys know where I could find a cheap RTA software to use on my laptop.
thanks

Were those the ARC's made by Image Dynamics? i.e. IDQ's? If we're talking IDQ10's I know for a fact they won't handle 400 watts. Mine bottomed out like crazy with just 250, albeit a VERY underated 250 from an Xtant 1001dx running at 4 ohms. :) Well I will pass on them since I'm using and Xtant 2200...

I presently have a JL Audio 10W3v2 10” subwoofer in a custom box with an internal volume of about 0.65cf. I have approximately 400W rms from a class A/B amplifier, it sounds pretty good, with fast and tight bass. What I was wondering is this; with everything else equal, same box same level of power ...

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