Car Audio Central - Ultimate Car Audio Forum and Community

If you come to the gathering this summer I may be able to arrange a tour of the Callies plant.

Its quite a small and flexible place.

I will ask and see if they do that crank, try to get a price. But of course with any sales people they would probably want to speak to you, as you would be the actual customer. But I might be able to get a slight discount :)

well I don't use Eastwood, the Hotcoat gun sucks. I use a different system that is still a hobby gun, but I know several proffesional shops that use it for their small batches!
not knocking it, but the IR lights suck too. you don't get even temperatures for proper curing. I am a member of the Powder Coating Industry Association and I own Bryant Custom Coatings. you coan use those IR lights but they don't really get the job done. All they do is melt the powder, they don't actually heat up the base metal for the proper molecular bond thats is required for proper hardness and durability. I use a modified batch oven from a Subway shop (Alot of small batch shops use this type of oven) they can be purchased really cheap used (250 for mine) whereas they sell new for $8000! I cut out the divider in the bottom of the top oven so the entire cabinet can be used. A 10x10x10 batch oven costs about 10,000, so I will stick with my small oven for now! I used to use a propane IR heating element in a custom built cabinet and it worked, but not as well as my new oven. Just FYI. If you really want to do some serious powedercoating, you need a Nordson gun. NICE stuff

yeah I'm familiar with eastwood, and home powdercoating stuff, I just want to do this one right the first time so I don't ever have to re-do it.

I'll give ya basic specs on a crank if ya want to give me a price on it.
CRANK 440 4340 4.150"
Eagle 440 4.15 stroke, 4340 steel, 8-bolt crankshaft for a mopar 440ci BB (440 magnum)
If you grind cams I need to get one made to match that crank as well.

I still say you should try one of our cranks!

http://www.callies.com

Chrysler Hemi

• 4340 Forging
• Dura-Tuff
• All 4 rod journals Angalite drilled
• Counterweights Shaped & Profiled
• Under 5.000" Stroke
• Typical BB weight 74 pounds
• Custom BB Chevy rod journals also available

So you can tell them the stroke you want! Make sure the put the lightning holes in all 4 pins and a thru one with a plug. Makes it a hell of a lot lighter!

Give them a call if not listed. They do custom ones also, I believe at no extra charge. In all honesty they run small batches of parts. I see some runs of 3 :)

With the powdercoat you can buy lights to cook the powder on. We have our own powdercoating gun, nice tool for $130!

http://www.eastwoodco.com

I would powder coat the block too. it will last a hell of a lot longer than paint. I am bagging the rear of mine, cause my 20's make it sit too hi.

well, my problem is finding an oven large enough for the whole frame.
the motor is getting rotisseried so I can swap out the stock crank for a forged steel 4.150" eagle crank, then rebuild the whole top end of it.
torqueflite 3sp aluminum auto tranny is getting rebuilt to handle the torque and power, and getting a shift kit etc.
the block will get painted after it's been magnafluxed and hot-tanked.
the car's already getting converted to discs (brake conversion is sitting in the trunk right now) and haven't decided on the suspension yet. may go coilover in front and slide-a-link or air bags in back. the back needs to be lifted a couple inches to clear the rear tires so they don't scrape. I'm not tubbing it, but I'm stuffing 315s under the back end with a dana D60 TorSen rear end.

oh yeah. I am, gettong ready to do my new motor and drop it in, then i will be painting it, taking it all the way doen this time. I do poweder coating in my shop at home. I did my entire fronmt suspension when I converted to discs. too cool. and cheap if you have your own equipment!

this one is a 66 charger. I'm using LizardSkin as a liner material for the entire interior of the vehicle while I have it apart to rebuild the motor and trans, and powdercoat the frame before putting teh body back on and re-doing the suspension.
it's a bit of a project, but it's a pretty tight car to begin with. the sound deadening helps a lot though.
keeps the car cooler, too.
the 493cid motor builds up quite a bit of heat, rather quickly.

71 GS convertible. entire interior spray deadened and then bedlined. used to as tight as a lexus when I first built it. 154 db later back rattlin. I have broken spot welds on sheet metal!

I know.

Heck, I still use old early 90s Orion components in my current system because I liked how they were hand assembled in AZ, as opposed to mechanized production lines or child labor overseas. I liked the all MilSpec compoennt choices they used as well. I can squeeze a lot ofut of those old amps and they last forever. Newer amps have much tighter tolerances for things like load limitations, generally speaking, at least till you get into teh four-figure range for amplifiers, then you're back to the hand assembly and mostly US made products.

while you're here if ya plan to stick around, swing by the BIO section and write up a bit about yourself. Folks love to read about others' experience and such. Lets people know who ya are.

the car I'm building now is an older 1966 dodge, but thankfully that means an old school V8 that gives me a ton of room to do stuff like a big alternator, Vreg, 0AWG cable, spray lined sound deadening, etc..
not nearly as cramped as most modern cars. It's nice having the room to work with so I don't have to cram things into places tehy just weren't meant to go.