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by **smoker** » Fri Mar 31, 2006 5:01 am

GlassWolf wrote:I knew what I was doing.
4 of them were small hard domes in the dash below the windshield for >15KHz (in serial). two in each door were 1" peerless/orion XTR-1 soft domes in serial for 5K-15K, and the two mids in each door went from 5K down to the subs.
worked just fine. very smooth, very open, and very clear.
The only time it got obnoxious was with dark side of the moon on CD at the beginning of "Time." when the alarm clocks went off with the volume up. That'd pretty much make anyone cringe.

maybe i should have read the post a little better....never thought about doing bandpass crossovers on a tweet...

by **JL Man** » Fri Mar 31, 2006 3:52 am

back when i got my first system i have tweeters next to my rear view mirror controls, on my front pillars, seat-belt pillars, and rear pillars . . not good tweeters, just those cheap ones for like 20 bucks a pair a car audio shop . . . was the worst thing i ever heard in my life . . . i still feel stupid for that :/

by **GlassWolf** » Fri Mar 31, 2006 3:52 am

I knew what I was doing.
4 of them were small hard domes in the dash below the windshield for >15KHz (in serial). two in each door were 1" peerless/orion XTR-1 soft domes in serial for 5K-15K, and the two mids in each door went from 5K down to the subs.
worked just fine. very smooth, very open, and very clear.
The only time it got obnoxious was with dark side of the moon on CD at the beginning of "Time." when the alarm clocks went off with the volume up. That'd pretty much make anyone cringe.

by **smoker** » Fri Mar 31, 2006 3:45 am

8 tweets? damn!!!!!! i would be jamming screwdrivers through my eardrums to make it stop..............

by **GlassWolf** » Fri Mar 31, 2006 3:39 am

because even JL realizes that rear fill sucks :)

but that's all outlined in the FAQ section anyway.

When I ran my competition car, I had 8 tweeters and two mids in front, and two 5" midrange in back, attenuated and narrow-band notch filtered. You really couldn't even tell they were there. I never, EVER lacked for mids/highs, even with the two ported 12" subs in back, at 140dB you couldn't hear yourself think, but it was clear as a bell with plenty more headroom from the whole system, and up to +15dB @ 40Hz from the preamp.

by **dkmons32** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 10:31 pm

Yeah I see what you mean how the JL would balance out the system better than the Kicker amp. Plus with my other two JL amps it would look way clean to have all JL gear in the trunk. I guess my decision now will be determined by how much money I have to spare. And Team AI, in your opinion what sounds better: the two sets of components in the front doors and rear deck, or in both the front and back doors?

by **Jonathan** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 6:23 pm

Well, since Kicker has the worst website design EVER, I can't really get a manual on the ZX650.4. Stupid ass flash design. I know it's the same power all around And I'm guessing that it's 125-150W RMS at 4 ohm, at 14.4V, but again I'm not sure.

I like the fact that the JL 450/4 has a staggered output comparing between front and rear, helps balance the system a little better.

The Kicker will be cheaper and it puts out more power. The JL is a better built amp, but probably not enough to justify the cost in your case.

by **Team AI** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 6:04 pm

I have matching components in my front and rear doors too. I use them when I'm really pushing the subs so i can still hear the music and some types of music I listen too I like to have the sound behind me as well as in front of me just a personal prefference so I understand where you are coming from but when listening to some good jazz or blues I fade all the way to the front and lower the subs a little and boy does she sing to me :P

by **dkmons32** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 5:52 pm

Cool thanks for the input guys. Yeah I'll be running two 12W7 subs with two JL 1000/1 amps. Should be pretty loud

. I'm pretty set on getting the rear speakers though, can't leave out the people in the back seat :)

by **GlassWolf** » Wed Mar 29, 2006 7:41 pm

I'd suggest avoiding separates in the rear deck. it'll make the rears too bright.
If you're set on those though, either amp is fine.
you'll only really need about 50-75 watts per channel for components.

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