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Ported box setup.

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Topic review
   

Expand view Topic review: Ported box setup.

by callandor2k » Tue Mar 09, 2010 8:21 pm

Gonna have to be a 12. 15" sub would make box too tall to fit into trunk.

by callandor2k » Tue Mar 09, 2010 7:54 pm

Ok I have finally steered away from sealed boxes. I am going to go ported for sure now. I finally convinced myself to get away with sealed and get a more efficient enclosure. Just gotta decide if I wanna squeeze a 15 in or go with a 12.

by Ryan from Ohio » Sat Mar 06, 2010 5:22 am

You will be fine.

by callandor2k » Fri Mar 05, 2010 8:25 pm

I won't be running full RMS of the AMP anyway. But if I want to do it every now and then, it's there to use if I want it.

If setting gains at 3/4 radio volume and sqrt(wattage x Ohm load)= Voltage is accurate. I rarely go over 1/2 volume most of the time anyway. And if I do, it's not for very long.

by Bwcad1 » Fri Mar 05, 2010 8:08 pm

callandor2k wrote:What I meant by underpowering the subs is where I am not running full sub rated rms to it from the amp. I know it's not really underpowering it. But that is what I call it.
I guess I should of said. I would rather run a little under the rated RMS of the subs than run too much.

Just bear in mind going that direction puts is more stressful on your equipment.

The atlas cone is plastic. there are tons of subs that use plastic cones now. Some of mine do.

by callandor2k » Fri Mar 05, 2010 7:09 pm

JeremyC wrote:I want to add something to your theory about over and under powering.
There really isn't such a thing as underpowering a sub. All your doing is limiting its max output.
Its just like turning the volume down, or limiting how loud you can turn it.
Say your running a 2K watt rms amp on a 1000 watt RMS sub. As long as your gains are set properly, and you never turn your deck up till your input stage of your amp is maxed your sub will never see 2K watts.
Say you do turn the deck up till the input stage of your amp is maxed. All you have to do is turn the deck down the equivlent of 3db and your back down to 1K watts rms.
Cut the deck by 3 more db, and now your at 500 watts rms.
See what I'm gettign at here.
Most of us match the RMS output of our amp to the rms rating of the sub. That way we can get every last drop of output when we want it, and still know were not going to run into thermal issues.
There is nothing wrong with running an amp with a higher rms than the speaker its conected to. In some situations the added dynamic headroom can be a plus, especially in your higher end SQ cars.
And the extra headroom can keep the amps from running as hot when you do decide to crank it up a little. BUT..... You have to know your system, and how its set up. So unless your willing to pay someone with the right tools, and a lot of experiance, or you really know what your doing. I wouldn't sugest it.

What I meant by underpowering the subs is where I am not running full sub rated rms to it from the amp. I know it's not really underpowering it. But that is what I call it.

I guess I should of said. I would rather run a little under the rated RMS of the subs than run too much.

by callandor2k » Fri Mar 05, 2010 7:02 pm

Ryan from Ohio wrote:Pretty much what Bill said.
If you dont have the room to run the ported properly then go for the sealed.
Ported boxes not done properly are no good.
What subs are you going to run? That will play an effect on what box size and how much port area you truly need.

I decided on one of these 3 subs.

MB Quart RWE-304

Hifonics Brutus BRZ12D4

Hifonics Atlas ATL12D4

Dual sealed chamber cause I don't have the trunk space for a good ported box. But will most likely be one of the Hifonics. Not sure if I really like the looks of the Atlas series. It's different. But it looks like the cone part is plastic, though I am sure it's not.

by MobileAudio219 » Fri Mar 05, 2010 6:17 pm

Ryan from Ohio wrote:Pretty much what Bill said.
If you dont have the room to run the ported properly then go for the sealed.
Ported boxes not done properly are no good.
What subs are you going to run? That will play an effect on what box size and how much port area you truly need.
Yep.

Also certain subs don't favor ported boxes, and certain subs don't favor sealed boxes.

by Ryan from Ohio » Fri Mar 05, 2010 5:12 pm

Pretty much what Bill said.

If you dont have the room to run the ported properly then go for the sealed.

Ported boxes not done properly are no good.

What subs are you going to run? That will play an effect on what box size and how much port area you truly need.

by JeremyC » Fri Mar 05, 2010 4:15 pm

I want to add something to your theory about over and under powering.

There really isn't such a thing as underpowering a sub. All your doing is limiting its max output.

Its just like turning the volume down, or limiting how loud you can turn it.

Say your running a 2K watt rms amp on a 1000 watt RMS sub. As long as your gains are set properly, and you never turn your deck up till your input stage of your amp is maxed your sub will never see 2K watts.

Say you do turn the deck up till the input stage of your amp is maxed. All you have to do is turn the deck down the equivlent of 3db and your back down to 1K watts rms.

Cut the deck by 3 more db, and now your at 500 watts rms.

See what I'm gettign at here.

Most of us match the RMS output of our amp to the rms rating of the sub. That way we can get every last drop of output when we want it, and still know were not going to run into thermal issues.

There is nothing wrong with running an amp with a higher rms than the speaker its conected to. In some situations the added dynamic headroom can be a plus, especially in your higher end SQ cars.

And the extra headroom can keep the amps from running as hot when you do decide to crank it up a little. BUT..... You have to know your system, and how its set up. So unless your willing to pay someone with the right tools, and a lot of experiance, or you really know what your doing. I wouldn't sugest it.

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