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RMS power to sub

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Topic review
   

Expand view Topic review: RMS power to sub

by NorthQuad » Tue Oct 06, 2009 1:03 pm

I've read bad things about dealercostcaraudio...

So, if you were thinking of ordering from them.

by Tim » Tue Oct 06, 2009 12:01 pm

simpleone71 wrote:Now there is def. a problem for me.....building a box. I once built a bird house and it was condemned by the housing authority :surprised .

LOL that is pretty good...or bad. LOL

Building your own enclosure isnt that hard. Go visit a few forums and get a few tools and you can do your own.

Tim

by simpleone71 » Mon Oct 05, 2009 7:58 pm

Now there is def. a problem for me.....building a box. I once built a bird house and it was condemned by the housing authority :surprised .

by loudwagon15s » Mon Oct 05, 2009 7:50 pm

if space is an issue, why not just make your own box to make the best of what you have? I've been hearing a ton of great feedback about dc audio, and know rusty can make a damn good sub, ever considered a level 2 or 3?
http://www.dcsoundlab.com/woofers.html

by simpleone71 » Mon Oct 05, 2009 7:20 pm

I'm going with JL mostly due to it having an enclosure that will fit behind my center console in my tacoma access cab. The speaker I was looking at was a 4 ohm single voice coil. Also don't want multiple amps on the stock alternator so went with the cadence zrs-9004 which will give me 90 watts rms to my door speakers (image dynamics 6.5 component speakers) and 250 bridged to a sub woofer at 4 ohms. That is why the smaller power. Still haven't decided whether I should go with a 10" or 12" woofer either if there are any suggestions on that. Was looking at the 12" a little more, but maybe with only 250 watts, should stick to 10"?


http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/cs112rg-w3v3.aspx

I have no preference to them over another brand and am open to any suggestions. My problem is that the space behind my center console to the seat is 13.25 inches. Then at the top of the console is two cup holders that at 11.5 inches tall makes the space only 9.25 inches deep. I'm somehow trying to balance good bass in a sealed enclosure and that space. Although my hair is thinning trying to meet these requirements.

by OnYrMrk » Mon Oct 05, 2009 7:04 pm

I often wonder why JL ever..but that is only my opinion....

Our woofers can handle WAY more than RMS, Bills woofers can handle WAY more than RMS, and so can most every other manufacturer out there that is a Subwoofer manufacturer First and foremost. Why can't JL?

by loudwagon15s » Mon Oct 05, 2009 6:40 pm

if your going to build your own enclosure that takes into account your small power, then the w3, if your just going with the small sealed enclosure from jl then i'd go with the w1. May i ask why your going with jl? dont they come in crazy coils like dual 3 and dual 6?

by simpleone71 » Mon Oct 05, 2009 2:12 pm

The amp I wanted was no longer available, so I ended up with a Cadence zrs-9004, so now it would only be 250 watts rms bridged. That would closely put me at 80% with the jl audio W1v2. Would this fact change anyone's mind? The speaker I'm looking at comes in a sealed enclosure from JL audio.

by NorthQuad » Sun Oct 04, 2009 10:12 pm

I'd personally go with the 500rms sub. And go with a properly designed vented enclosure. Build the right enclosure and those 300rms watts of power will make the 500rms max. recommended watts sub pound.

by loudwagon15s » Sun Oct 04, 2009 7:33 pm

between those two subs, prolly the w3 as it has a higher thermal power handling. Both subs can be equally as loud as each other depending on the enclosure with the same power.

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