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Class A/B not so good for subs?

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Topic review
   

Expand view Topic review: Class A/B not so good for subs?

by CaptainPioneer » Fri Aug 01, 2008 6:00 am

Well I just purchased the Autoteck sm2-1000 today... ok price on it... I think im going to run new wires too when i do this... Its going to all go into my camry...

After that I will eliminate my rear deck speakers and instead install my Bravox mids somewhere... Im hoping to have the system done by after Christmas...

But as for now the Autotek will have a temporary home in my truck just so i can get some bass for the time being...

by Jonathan » Thu Jul 31, 2008 11:54 pm

I've beaten the snot out of A/B amplifiers in a Georgia summer and haven't had any issues out of any of them. They do fine on subs if they're designed right, most A/B amplifiers are the most efficient at peak power output (just below clipping), effectively they waste less heat for the level of power produced. just have to have a well built amp, and a solid install and configure it correctly, aka it's not sliding around in a trunk, gains are set correctly, no huge bass boost turned all the way up, etc.

by CaptainPioneer » Wed Jul 30, 2008 5:17 am

well i Think i will go with the A/B im just worried about heat issues thats all...

Jeremy are there any tricks with cooling you could suggest?

by JeremyC » Wed Jul 30, 2008 5:16 am

MobileAudio219 wrote: A great installer will get better results with a class d running the subs then your average dyi will with a class a/b.
I have to disagree, the installer doesn't make the amp sound better, its the rest of the install that makes the SYSTEM sound better.

Now swap that class d for a class a or class ab, and see if you here a difference.

My S10 was AB all the way around.

My first install on the accord was ab and d

My new install is all ab, and in my opinion the ab does sound better. I know swapping subs helped a lot, but I'm sure some of that has to be amp.

I guess I will know for sure in a couple weeks. I'm putting my W7 and 1000/1 in a friends car. So I can audition them side by side.

by CaptainPioneer » Wed Jul 30, 2008 4:09 am

well my setup is pretty bulletproof. I have a distro-block at the battery with an inline on my 0 gauge that i have... Also have my ground to Chassis... but yea the only weak part of my system is my damn alternator... which I am a little conscerned about because i know when i run at 1 ohm with my Hifonics and im pushing hard... I notice a slight dim.

by MobileAudio219 » Tue Jul 29, 2008 3:33 pm

I think that with 95% of installs youre not going to notice a difference between a/b class amps and d class amps.

Now I'm not saying that there isnt a difference in sq, there is, but most installs arent good enough to reflect it.

A great installer will get better results with a class d running the subs then your average dyi will with a class a/b.

by CaptainPioneer » Mon Jul 28, 2008 10:43 am

Well I am moving toward SQ for my Camry so maybe I will go with that

by JeremyC » Mon Jul 28, 2008 10:33 am

Nope nothing wrong with running A/B, I actually prefer it in my setups.

I have ran both, and the A/B just seems to sound better. Sure you loose more power to heat, but thats any easy trade off when your top priority is SQ.

by CaptainPioneer » Mon Jul 28, 2008 9:59 am

Yea thats what i was going to do... Im just wondering though because my amp is great... I love it but still is their anything wrong with running A/B? I also hear cleaner delivery is a positive to a/b

by Ryan from Ohio » Mon Jul 28, 2008 9:14 am

Class a/b is not as efficient as class d. Inefficiency is burned off by heat.


I would let Bill look at your amp first before buying new.

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