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by **cargodz** » Sun Jul 15, 2007 1:48 am

GlassWolf wrote:building horsepower isn't cheap.

I tell that to people all the time

by **GlassWolf** » Fri Jul 13, 2007 5:31 pm

also, port match your head(s) intake, TB, etc.
thi'll free up more power, too. also, free.
with all of this work though, the most you're still looking at with a mostly stock motor is about 300HP and 330lb-ft peak.
building horsepower isn't cheap.

as the old saying goes:
1: Fast
2: Cheap
3: Reliable

pick any two.

by **cargodz** » Fri Jul 13, 2007 3:03 pm

Well your simple add-ons such as exhaust, Cold air, pulley, MAF upgrade, Royal Purple oil, upgraded wires, NGK plugs... all of these should free up somewhere around 50 ponies...
Notice I said "Free up"... as most of these do not actually gain hp, but actually make the motor more efficient in how it performs, thus "free up".
So you could get somewhere between 290-315 at the crank without Nitrous or any major modification... Although notice I point out that this is crank HP and not Wheel Hp... You can easily account for a 10-20% loss from the crank to the wheels, but the only real way to know what you've gained would be to go hit the dyno now and then again after your upgrades.

by **Astaldoath** » Fri Jul 13, 2007 12:43 pm

[quote="cargodz"]BINGO!... We Have a Winner! :)
And you have to keep in mind that wet systems are designed for forced induction, as long as you're not running lean you're in good shape... Heck that's essentially the rule of thumb behind every internal combustion engine, not just forced induction motors ]

Im makin 260 hp stock and 280 ft lb of torque. Id like to hit 350 hp and 350-400 tq without engine work. Dunno if its possible or not.

I mean like just CAI, Exhaust, manifolds, headers, pulley.

by **cargodz** » Thu Jul 12, 2007 9:42 am

GlassWolf wrote:the wet systems are preferred because you run less chance of leaning out the AFR and cooking some pistons.
That's essentially how most people kill motors with nitrous.
they run too lean.

BINGO!... We Have a Winner! :)
And you have to keep in mind that wet systems are designed for forced induction, as long as you're not running lean you're in good shape... Heck that's essentially the rule of thumb behind every internal combustion engine, not just forced induction motors

by **GlassWolf** » Thu Jul 12, 2007 5:48 am

the wet systems are preferred because you run less chance of leaning out the AFR and cooking some pistons.
That's essentially how most people kill motors with nitrous.
they run too lean.

by **Bwcad1** » Thu Jul 12, 2007 5:40 am

supercharger and turbo is possible.

by **breakjunki** » Thu Jul 12, 2007 5:24 am

whats your HP stock on a V6 supercharged? 350 doesn't sound to hard to pull off.

by **breakjunki** » Thu Jul 12, 2007 5:23 am

FOr a second, I thought that kit allowed both the super and turbo. I didn't think that was possible, now that i read it further it isn't :) . I've had a few cars with a turbo setup. I like a supercharger way better, with turbo you have a lag somewhere in the rpm range, but Its sweet when you get in the boost range. Superchargers just provide solid power across the whole rpm range, for reliability I think superchargers are way better, don't know why you'd get rid of it.

by **Darthness** » Thu Jul 12, 2007 4:57 am

nitrous can be safe if you're not greedy with it :P yeah, a 150shot on a stock civic engine is a disaster but if smaller shot would be safe if the driver isn't a retard.

And i've always been told to avoid dry kits completely. Many people i've talked to say that a direct port or wet system is much better and much safer?

Also, whats wrong with twin charging? :P

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