by naksteve » Thu Dec 28, 2006 5:48 am
Also, a great place to look for good car audio at ridiculously low prices is at police auctions of stolen property.
I got a Nak CDtuner1 (it was an $850 unit) at a police auction for $50. the most expensive part was buying a new pull-out sleeve/wiring harness for $150.
For controlling the sub-bass separately, try looking at remote sub bass controllers that are part of many electronic crossovers/sub amps.
In one of my installs, I use an a/d/s 642ix constant bass X-over with a remote AC-502 sub bass controller. Using these things makes separate EQ'ing unnecessary. There used to be a whole variety of crossover chips with different X-over frequencies/slopes and modes: band-pass, inverse band-pass, low-pass and high pass. The 642ix is a highly versatile piece--one of he few analog X-overs which can do the inverse band pass configuration, as well as 3-way/4-way formats
For an example: My subs are low-pass filtered @ 63 Hz, 24db/octave; the front components are inverse band passed, receiving the sum of two signals---100Hz and below and 170 Hz and above.
This staggered-crossover minimizes the fundamental resonate frequency area between 100-170Hz, and allows for the perception of frontal bass localization by having the ability to adjust the level of low frequency output of the woofers, while creating a staggered gap to again reduce the resonance from the transfer function of the car's acoustics and increase the front components' clarity, efficiency and power handling.
I've seen a lot of a/d/s 642ix's on ebay for as little as $20. finding a/d/s filter chips could be a problem, although you can make them yourself or have others I know create whatever X-over frequency/slope/frequency range "chips" you want.
Also, a great place to look for good car audio at ridiculously low prices is at police auctions of stolen property.
I got a Nak CDtuner1 (it was an $850 unit) at a police auction for $50. the most expensive part was buying a new pull-out sleeve/wiring harness for $150.
For controlling the sub-bass separately, try looking at remote sub bass controllers that are part of many electronic crossovers/sub amps.
In one of my installs, I use an a/d/s 642ix constant bass X-over with a remote AC-502 sub bass controller. Using these things makes separate EQ'ing unnecessary. There used to be a whole variety of crossover chips with different X-over frequencies/slopes and modes: band-pass, inverse band-pass, low-pass and high pass. The 642ix is a highly versatile piece--one of he few analog X-overs which can do the inverse band pass configuration, as well as 3-way/4-way formats
For an example: My subs are low-pass filtered @ 63 Hz, 24db/octave; the front components are [i]inverse band passed[/i], receiving the sum of two signals---100Hz and below and 170 Hz and above.
This staggered-crossover minimizes the fundamental resonate frequency area between 100-170Hz, and allows for the perception of frontal bass localization by having the ability to adjust the level of low frequency output of the woofers, while creating a staggered gap to again reduce the resonance from the transfer function of the car's acoustics and increase the front components' clarity, efficiency and power handling.
I've seen a lot of a/d/s 642ix's on ebay for as little as $20. finding a/d/s filter chips could be a problem, although you can make them yourself or have others I know create whatever X-over frequency/slope/frequency range "chips" you want.