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damn, oh well time to get working on the box again

If its solid in that area you may be creating a back pressure.

That port shouldnt be so close. The port should be at least a few inches from any wall/speaker tray etc.

TEDD

can somebody clear up the whole cancelation in box thing?i just built a ported box 1.5cf 30hz for 2 koda 10's and i think there is something wrong because the output is just not right, im almost sure something is canceling out, i have the ports firing up to the deck and i noticed there is not even half an inch form the port to the deck.

well first of all there is only 1 sub, 12". I dont know if im up for the idea of building the sealed box on the rear deck and sealing it and such, but its certainly not 100% out.

kevin - for the volume im not 100% yet, it will probably be 1 to 2 cubic feet. RE suggests .8 , the Vas is about 2, so we'll see. I have all that stuff in my trunk now so until i strip my trunk i wont really know for sure.

as far as how far back the face will be depends on where my center piece will go. My false floor is oging to be I believe 4 or 5 pieces. There will be a square in the middle (or over the spare tire) that lifts up enough to access the tire. I will draw a paint diagram of it later.

and the hinge will just be where the two pieces of the mdf meet.

this may not make sense without pics but, would it be feasible to build your box so that there is a peak in the center and the subs played away from each other at an angle....either up or towards the rear of the car? i would think toward the rear would be best but if you dont have at least 14-15 inches in height you may have to lay them down or simply lay them at the angle you are talking about....if you have the air space i dont really see a problem with that...maybe a bandpass with the port running into the rear deck would solve your problem (of course im a fan of bandpass)

lotas, we have the same car so I have a pretty good idea what you're working with, but I need to get a better idea what you are planning on doing.

What volume are you trying to achieve with the box?
How far back is the face of the box going to be?
Where do you plan on placing the hinge in the floor?

I would advise less than 45 degrees.

Thats a fairly sharp angle... for a box.

Try 20 Degrees.

Its always a good idea to have one side of your box slanted. If the front and the back are the exact same, you can get cancelation from the waves inside the box. So are you planing on firing the speakers forward or backwards?

Something else you might think about if firing the speakers up. If you don't mind doing some work to the back deck, and firing the sub directly thru. It would give you a little more room to play with for the face of the box, and will give you an easy way to couple the speaker with the air inside the car.

well in order to do my false floor like I want to i have to build a new box that will fit at the very back of the trunk up against the seats. the only dilemna i have is that from the false floor to the top of the trunk might be less than or just equal to 12", therefore for my 12" sub the box might not be doable standing right side up.

this will be a in 4door sedan, now i read the faq about 'which way to turn your subs' but i didnt see anything on like a "slanted" or 45 degree angle. it would be facing the trunk lid, not the seats. are there any predictions of what/how this would sound? will there be any cancellation?

with this new setup, the sub box is going to be nearly directly under the rear deck, not sure if that makes a difference or gives any new ideas.

anyways, any ideas how to face it? i also have to decide if i can just go mdf or if i have to use fiberglass.