The paint guns and paint almost don't matter, they are that insignificant compared to the importance of the prep work on getting the surface actually perfect in every aspect...
I'd take a Krylon-painted finish over a perfect bodywork job every single time, over a high-dollar paint job over a novice bodywork job. Every time.
I would recruit a friend who is in the autobody business to show you some tips. I even personally took a college course at a trade school for autobody professionals!
There's a definite FEEL that has to be developed - it's not something you can really see (although learning guide-coat techniques can definitely help you out there, even on compound curve surfaces).
Essentially, it's just like everyone says - sand sand sand... start out with a heavier grit sandpaper- maybe an 80 grit and skim-coats of autobody filler (not a thick build anywhere, or it can crack over time!). Here's the most fundamental part of the "feel" - it has to end up being the perfect finished shape at this point, simply with the sanding scratches in it from the heavier grit paper. If it's a flat surface - perfectly flat. If it's a curved surface - the correct perfect curve.
Then, you have to follow that up with 120 grit... 240 grit... 400 grit... 600 grit... 800 grit... 1000 grit... 1200 grit... that's probably far enough (actually 800 grit might be far enough depending on how picky you are and what primer you use

) - and at each step, making sure to sand consistently, and not disturb that perfect flatness or perfect curvature - checking with a guidecoat and by feel constantly.
Then, prime and paint - I like to prime with a filler/primer and then follow that up with a sanding.
Or - you can take an easier way out (like me whenver I can, since I hate to sand). You could use a textured finish instead, and then only have to sand maybe down to an 80 grit finish with an orbital sander.

The textured paint is thick and hides (and even works with) all those imperfections and sanding scratches.
Just a thought. Or, carpet.

Just don't think you can get away with much less sanding with vinyl - vinyl transposes nearly all the imperfections you get with paint! If you can see it in the 'glass, you'll see it in the vinyl.
I just don't want to see you underestimate the work here...
The paint guns and paint almost don't matter, they are that insignificant compared to the importance of the prep work on getting the surface actually perfect in every aspect...
I'd take a Krylon-painted finish over a perfect bodywork job every single time, over a high-dollar paint job over a novice bodywork job. Every time. ;)
I would recruit a friend who is in the autobody business to show you some tips. I even personally took a college course at a trade school for autobody professionals!
There's a definite FEEL that has to be developed - it's not something you can really see (although learning guide-coat techniques can definitely help you out there, even on compound curve surfaces).
Essentially, it's just like everyone says - sand sand sand... start out with a heavier grit sandpaper- maybe an 80 grit and skim-coats of autobody filler (not a thick build anywhere, or it can crack over time!). Here's the most fundamental part of the "feel" - it has to end up being the perfect finished shape at this point, simply with the sanding scratches in it from the heavier grit paper. If it's a flat surface - perfectly flat. If it's a curved surface - the correct perfect curve.
Then, you have to follow that up with 120 grit... 240 grit... 400 grit... 600 grit... 800 grit... 1000 grit... 1200 grit... that's probably far enough (actually 800 grit might be far enough depending on how picky you are and what primer you use :D ) - and at each step, making sure to sand consistently, and not disturb that perfect flatness or perfect curvature - checking with a guidecoat and by feel constantly.
Then, prime and paint - I like to prime with a filler/primer and then follow that up with a sanding.
Or - you can take an easier way out (like me whenver I can, since I hate to sand). You could use a textured finish instead, and then only have to sand maybe down to an 80 grit finish with an orbital sander. :cool: The textured paint is thick and hides (and even works with) all those imperfections and sanding scratches.
Just a thought. Or, carpet. :D
Just don't think you can get away with much less sanding with vinyl - vinyl transposes nearly all the imperfections you get with paint! If you can see it in the 'glass, you'll see it in the vinyl.
I just don't want to see you underestimate the work here...