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no its not dangerous thats not really a big deal at all. alot of the spl guys have a switch wired the same way. they do this because at the volumes the play at you cannot be in the car. so they have a podium. they turn there amps on at the last min to save voltage and they burp the car. if for some reason the amps protect the can turn them off and on again also.

Yea thanks, it did. What the guy was saying tho is, he just stuck the remote wire into the power terminal with the power wire, put a switch on it and ran it to the remote. A lazy way of hooking up a remote wire I guess. Kind of dangerous I think.

The two wires shouldn't be touching anyway unless they melted together. Even still, electricity will take the path of least resistance. However ... picture it this way ... your power wire is a garden hose and each amplifier or what ever is connected is a different nozzle. you can open one nozzle more than the other. The amount of water through each nozzle is the current. They don't all pass the same amount of current. one may be trickling and the other may be full blast. But the path of least resistance is through the hoze to the nozzles. now, puncture the hose in between somewhere, and the water starts shooting out there. That you don't want. lol.

But just because their is a gallon of water a minute passing through the hose doesn't mean each nozzle is going to pass a gallon a minute. One might pass a half gallon and the other two might pass a quarter gallon each. But the end result is, the total of the sums equals the whole.

I hope that cleared it up for you a little.

I was under the impression there'd be the same amount of current running across the wires since they're touching. Would the path of least resistance rule describe this accurately?
Yea, I my remote wire wired through the HU's, I just read that on another forum and my logic told me it was wrong, so I wanted you guy's opinions.
No, I'm not using the output, but I will be when I hook up my component amp. Ah ok, I figured it'd be the same for active, stupid me for assuming lol. Also, I meant 90 degrees per order of the crossover.

Thanks for straightening me out on that.

If you have one wire running to the back of your car and split it to two different amplifiers, each amp is only going to get the current it needs. One may get 12 amps and the other may get 25 amps. There will be a total of 37 amps coming down the wire to the back of the car, but that doesn't mean each amp is going to get 37 amps of current.

the remote wire works the same way. However, a remote turn on is used only to turn on the amp. It only needs enough current to let the amp know to turn on. it pulls the big current through the + wire, not the turn on wire. Just hook up the remote wire from the amp to the remote turn on wire at the head unit. If you don't want to do that and are grabbing power from somewhere else and using a switch, you'll be fine. It's not going to get too much current. Everything will be ok.

Also, as for the crossover issue, that pertains primarily to passive crossovers, and besides, you're not using the output anyway, right? Or are you? And the shift in phase is dependant on the order of the crossover. It's not an automatic 90 degrees per crossover.

Yes, however, if the amp is pulling 90A and the remote wire is touching the power wire, then 90A will ALSO be running across that wire. (If I'm not mistaken.)

Edit: My amp has a built-in HPF incase you needed it for a ported box. Everything's hooked up correctly cause it sounds good, there isn't actually a problem with the sound or the bass. I was just playin around with it and I came across that weird phenomenon so I wanted to see if there was some explanation.
The only thing I can think is that each order of crossover that you add on, it changes your phase 90 degrees. At least that's what passivecrossovers.com says.

The remote terminal on the amp will only receive as much current as it needs. The alternator doesn't push power out to the vehicle and it's electrical systems. The electrical systems pull the power they need from the alternator. Does that help? So if you only need 20 amps of current to run the things you have turned on, and your alternator is 90 amps, only 20 amps will flow from the alternator to where ever it needs to go. So, if the remote turn on block of the amp wants .2 amps to turn the amp on, that's all it's going to get. Regardless of what size wire you use or how many switches you hook up. Does that make sense? Why are you using a switch and not the remote turn on from the deck?

to try to answer your second question, The high pass filter shouldn't have any effect. You're using a monoblock amplifier designed for subs. The low pass filter will control the input signal. The HPF is used for the line out and the signal the amp passes back out those connetions. If you're bass is effected by the HPF, you must have something hooked up wrong. The only thing that should matter is the low pass filter. I don't know what else to say on that one. it can't even be whether your subs are wired right or not because then they'd either work or they wouldn't. Do you have your RCAs plugged into the correct spot? Input, not output? I don't know. Something doesn't sound like it's right somewhere.

that remote wire wont get 100 amps because it will only take what it needs basicly. the same reason your alt doesnt always produce 200amps only what is needed.

1.) I saw a post on Ecoustics asking about ways to hook up a remote wire. One of the suggestions was to run the remote wire from the power terminal to a switch to the remote terminal. If I'm not mistaken, won't that put whatever power is running across the power wire into that remote wire? So we could have 100A running over an 18awg wire? Also, is there a limit to how much amperage can flow to the remote terminal before something bad happens?

2.) I was messing around with the settings on my sub amp (Orion 2500d) just to see if I could get it to sound any better. While playing with it, I noticed that if I have the HPF disabled, and my phase is set to 0, bass comes through. If I turn the HPF on, bass disappears (I set the knob to the lowest it can go which is 20hz). I then changed the phase to 180 and I got the same response as if I had the phase set to 0 and the HPF disabled. If I then disabled the HPF with the phase at 180, I lost all bass again.
So 0 phase + HPF disable = 180 phase + HPF enable = bass
0 phase + HPF enable = 180 phase + HPF disable = no bass
Is there a logical explanation that I am over looking?

My LPF is set around 90 w/ a 24db slope.

Thanks guys!