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Oh, curious (forgot at this point):

These pictures are the Lincoln, right?
(those sort of look like Ford-style doorhandles, and something about the color... very Ford I think :p And the oval door speakers - no one else but Ford...)

Pics look good, door looks pretty well sealed off, wooden baffle should actually if anything add a tiny degree of rigidity, which is good...

...so if you aren't getting any midbass, I'd suspect phase issues.
And unfortunately, there's TWO ways that can occur:

1) wiring the two speakers relatively out of phase. If you "click" the speaker with a 9v battery, you can visually see the phase - it's a nifty trick.
Disconnect the wire from the amp, and touch the wires to the battery, with the + wire touching the + battery terminal (and - to - obviously). The speaker cone should move OUT. If it moves IN, it's wired improperly - check the connection at the crossover, if you have one.

But more importantly than that - the cones should move the same direction on both sides. If the drivers side moves in, and the passenger side moves out, then that's what they'll do in operation as well - and the end result will be cancellation... but more importantly, [i]increasing[/i] amounts of cancellation as the frequencies get lower and lower, due to the pathlength difference of your offset seating location (among other things). ;)

I'd suspect that...
...but the OTHER way you can have phase issues has purely to do with car acoustics. My Civic suffers from a lack of midbass to some degree as well, and it has more to do with speaker placement / aiming / and interior acoustics than anything. Play with "time alignment" if your head unit has the feature - if this is the case, you'll find you can make an improvement with it.

Phase is a very interesting subject (OK, maybe you have to be a geek :p ) - and it has some serious implications on your sound. :cool:

here is the baffle being mounted

here is the fifth one

here is the 4th one

[quote="geolemon"]I can't get the last three pictures up - database error?
Assuming all looks well though - have you checked the phase on the midbass drivers? You can "click" them with a 9v battery to confirm speaker phase, and then wire accordingly. :cool: [/quote]
[quote="geolemon"]I can't get the last three pictures up - database error?
Assuming all looks well though - have you checked the phase on the midbass drivers? You can "click" them with a 9v battery to confirm speaker phase, and then wire accordingly. :cool: [/quote]
only when you double post..LOL...anyway..here are the last three photos, one post at a time

I can't get the last three pictures up - database error?

Assuming all looks well though - have you checked the phase on the midbass drivers? You can "click" them with a 9v battery to confirm speaker phase, and then wire accordingly. :cool:

I can't get the last three pictures up - database error?

Assuming all looks well though - have you checked the phase on the midbass drivers? You can "click" them with a 9v battery to confirm speaker phase, and then wire accordingly. :cool:

[quote="Jonathan"]How do you have that midbass mounted, MDF or Plywood ring I'm guessing?

You can always go further and keep adding more and more deadener to make it even better, but that install is easily good enough that you shouldn't have issues with anything. Assuming correct polarity those midbasses should be performing to their potential. I'm thinking it's either a power issue (be it simply a lack of or a level matching issue since you have dash mounted mids and tweets), or it's simply the shape/size of your doors in relation to the driver parameters. BTW, add a deflex pad behind the midbass driver, it will help a bit.

Still, though, that hands off to the midrange at 300hz, right? Are you lacking over the entire range of that midbass (say 80-300hz), or simply below 100hz or so? I'd recommend you try to better level-match the drivers (turn down the mids and tweets, put more power on the midbasses). The x-over and amplification you proposed will be able to pull this off and see how it does. If that still doesn't net good results, then you may want to upgrade to the "OMG, that thing is SICK" level of midbass drivers :D [/quote]



mdf 5x7 ring with a 6.5" opening. Works really nice and it is husmatted in too.

How do you have that midbass mounted, MDF or Plywood ring I'm guessing?

You can always go further and keep adding more and more deadener to make it even better, but that install is easily good enough that you shouldn't have issues with anything. Assuming correct polarity those midbasses should be performing to their potential. I'm thinking it's either a power issue (be it simply a lack of or a level matching issue since you have dash mounted mids and tweets), or it's simply the shape/size of your doors in relation to the driver parameters. BTW, add a deflex pad behind the midbass driver, it will help a bit.

Still, though, that hands off to the midrange at 300hz, right? Are you lacking over the entire range of that midbass (say 80-300hz), or simply below 100hz or so? I'd recommend you try to better level-match the drivers (turn down the mids and tweets, put more power on the midbasses). The x-over and amplification you proposed will be able to pull this off and see how it does. If that still doesn't net good results, then you may want to upgrade to the "OMG, that thing is SICK" level of midbass drivers :D