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It could be that also, sure.

In fact, if your ground is poor, something worse could be happening...
If your amp doesn't have a proper ground established, [i]it will FIND a ground path through something that shouldn't be carrying current!!![/i]

Very often, this means your RCA cables... and whatever circuitry in the HU finally does lead to chassis ground!
...think of the potential consequences. Your HU's output stage could get completely fritzed. I've seen this happen more than once, believe me.

Don't mess around with your ground:
Make sure it's made to CHASSIS metal, for one thing. Not some seat bolt, or some component that's bolted to another thing that looks like it's connected to chassis metal.
Remember also: paint is an [i]insulator[/i]. I use a wire wheel on a drill to strip the paint off my chassis ground, before bolting it down solidly (please don't use flimsy little self tapping screws). Then paint over that, or use dilectric grease to prevent corrosion.

What does your ground situation look like currently?

Possible ground issue? Maybe the ground made a slightly better connection now then it was yesterday. Double check all of your grounds, since a poor one can induce noise. BTW, nice clean looking install.

This isn't going to help you at all..but..are your amps mounted on the back of the seat (in the cargo area) or under the seat that folds up? Just wondering because I like how it looks and i've got a jeep. I never really thought there was enough room under there to mount amps.

Well I have some good news to report. As odd as this sounds I didnt touch anything inside the vehicle relating to the stereo. (jsut the gear selector, accelerator and brake occasionally :lol ) and umm well, I can't for the life of me recreate what was happening yesterday and during the first little portion of the drive this morning. on my way back from a freinds house, I noticed that it sounded a lot different from what it did when I left it maybe an hour ago.

I am wondering if by chance that the caps inside the amp have something to do with this effect? You know them not having enough storage capicty built up or something? again I didnt touch ANYTHING.

[quote="JeremyC"]No I knew what you were talking about the second time. I was asking if you turned the gain downon your mid, or high and see how it is. If one or the other is turned to hi it could cause a peak where the two overlap.[/quote]
(btw the gains on the amps are set to the far left which is 4V)
the eq has two output gain control. one is for the left ch and the other for the right.

[quote="crzystng"]but my main concern right now is to figure out what is going on with the zapping type of noise. I cant turn the volume up to a decent listening level and I dont want to strat frying these speakers. [/quote]The sound you describe could be a bunch of things, including (but not necessarily limited to) these sort of things:

1) overexcursion - which could happen from having your crossover set too low. But more likely an issue with your tweeter (from the specific sound you describe) than the mid. Unfortunately, tweeter overexcursion can be permanently damaging (not that mid overexcursion can't too!)

2) air leakage. If the mid isn't sealed down to it's baffle, there might be an air noise - which could be anywhere from a huff to a squeak. Probably not likely with a door speaker... but it could be.

3) tinsel lead slap - related to overexcursion. At high excursion levels, the leads can go tappity-tap on the back of the cone - and at 400, 500 cycles per second can sound like a zappy sort of sound. But more likely that's a defect in the speaker, and you'd be reaching disproportionate excursion levels relative to the output you'd be expecting from the speaker... and this would be purely a result from sending the speaker too much bass, so this might be the case if you hear this zappy noise only when the bass hits.

4) amplifier / HU / signal noise - could be something electronic, but usually those things don't scale with volume... it would sound scratchy and ugly at all volume levels. Usually. But it's still a possibility.

No I knew what you were talking about the second time. I was asking if you turned the gain downon your mid, or high and see how it is. If one or the other is turned to hi it could cause a peak where the two overlap.

Here is the whole picture for those intrested.

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/akashajeep/a0d36ca4.jpg[/img]

[quote="JeremyC"]Sounds like the x over poing between your mid and high might be a little off. Did you try turning one or the other down a tad and see where that got you.[/quote]
Again man.
not really cause I think you are thinking that I am running active on my front stage. not the case, I am biamping the PASSIVE xovers.
Passive means that I can NOT adjust the xover points on them. :fing02: thses are 3 way passive units built for these comps. where the xover points are, well your guess is as good as any.
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/akashajeep/361f86d7.jpg[/img]
The ONLY reason I am even using the h/u's high pass feature is so I can be 100% certain that they are not going to try and play lower than they really can ;) BTW I am not sure if you realize how much power is going on here but for clarifaction reason this is 320+RMS PER SIDE. or 160X4 biamped. the manual and the techs at boston have said they can handle 500 rms per side without complications.

Sounds like the x over poing between your mid and high might be a little off. Did you try turning one or the other down a tad and see where that got you.