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How about mounting the amp on the bottom of the passenger seat if it will fit. Or underneath the back seat. It would be off the floor, and for the most part, away from the elements, and for an added bonus, stealthy too.

thanks for that link. haven't heard of that brand. looks nice!

i actually already pulled the trigger on the Polk MM1040 10" sub and the Polk MM521 2-way 5.25" coax (for easy and stealthy install). According to polk, they are both "Marine Certified."

I also won a PPI PC450 on ebay for $105 shipped. Super stoked about that deal. I figured for the price, it won't be the end of the world if it doesn't survive. I'd hate to kill that amp though, just for sentimental reasons. lol.

I've started working on the plans for the sub / amp / storage box (rough, to-scale, preliminary plans attached). Trying to figure out how to access the amp, but still keep it protected. Maybe a weathersealed hatch with a pull-out drawer? Definitely don't want to access it from the top in fear of opening up a path for leaks. Which direction should i have the fans blow? one in and one out on each side? or both on one side in, and the other side out?

is there anything like conformal coating, but do-it-yourself, that i can try to protect the amp from moisture?

I would stay with Marine Grade. Marine grade does not mean that it will sound bad...it just means that normal condensation and humidity won't affect performance like normal equipment. You still can't submerge them, they will fry if that happens.

Also, I was thinking about a nice sub that is marine grade, check out Ultrasubs.com. Check out the A10...it is an excellent sub and sounds quite amazing!

For an amp, i was thinking of picking up a PPI PC450 (50w x 4) on eBay. Then protecting it with a weatherproof storage box that we'll build. I guess the challenge is making the box waterproof while also allow the amp to breathe. Any idea how i can do this? I can make the box air-tight, but am afraid it would get too hot, or I can allow ventilation from the bottom, but this would let in condensation daily. How tough are these amps? Could it function as an "outdoor" amp as long as it doesn't get directly rained on?

I found a 2 ohms component set, Infinity Reference 5030cs, which i thought would be a good idea to get the most out of that amp, but it's not marine-grade.

Kicker makes a [url=http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17532_Kicker+09KM10+-KM10-.html]marine sub[/url]...

Since it is a jeep, I would seriously look into using something cheap for sub, maybe Boss Marine, and then go better for amp...

ok, got the final budget number - $600. That pretty much limits us to one 4ch amp and one sub. More importantly, do you think we can get away without using marine-grade stuff?

my buddy just bought a jeep wrangler as a second vehicle. He plans on taking the doors and top off, and probably never putting them back on! He's actually ripping out all of the carpet and having the floor sprayed with Rhino Lining. It'll definitely be a "beach jeep". He knows i'm into car audio, so he's pretty much said do what i want to it. I'm still waiting on a final budget, but it will probably be around $800-$1,000. If ya'll want, let's make this a CarAudioCentral project, and i will post the pics of the install as we go.

Whatever we do, it's got to be weatherproof. He's the kind of guy that will leave it parked at the beach with no top for three days and not even think about it. Which brings me to our next requirement - security. It's gotta be secure. We'll bolt the box the the body and use security torx screws all around. I'm a firm believer that stealth is the best security measure. It appears that they make adapter plates to easily upgrade the factory dash 4x6 speakers to 5.25" speakers. I'm thinking we should go with a 5.25" component set with the tweeter mounted on that bracket thingy that puts it right in front of the driver (can't remember the name of that setup). This, as opposed to kick pods, may not be the best as far as angling goes, but at least they will be out of sight.

As for rear speakers, he currently has that speaker bar across the top, but i say let's lose that. A custom enclosure with a 10" or 12" sub (or two) should work just fine for him.

For the enclosure, I'm thinking we should design him a combination sub / storage box that's secured to the floor, locks, and is coated in Rhino Lining. Here is a nice example:
[url=http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f20/vdp-subwoofer-reviews-511840/#post4731622]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f20/vdp-subwoofer-reviews-511840/#post4731622/[/url]
[url=http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f20/jeep-center-console-subwoofer-570344/#post5335714]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f20/jeep-center-console-subwoofer-570344/#post5335714[/url]

Should we do all marine grade components? I've found the items listed below. If the subs are down firing, do you think we can get away with non-marine grade? I'm sure we could get better quality stuff for the money if we went non-marine grade, but i know that this equipment is going to be subjected to the elements and i want it to last. I have an older Orion XTREME 400.4 (50w x 4) that I could sell to him if ya'll think it would hold up. We could run the comps and sub off of that one amp, however, we may want a bit more power than that. I have no idea what size his alternator is, but i'll find out. I'd like to avoid having to upgrade the alternator if at all possible.

MARINE AMP:
Alpine Marine PDX-5M (75w x 4 + 300w x 1 @4&2 / 150 x 2 + 300w x 1 @4)
or
Alpine Marine PDX-4.100M (100w x 4 @4&2 / 200 x 2 @4)

MARINE COMPS:
Polk Audio MM5251 (5.25" separate)

MARINE SUB:
Memphis Marine 15-MM10D4 10" (200w)


One more thing, he already has an aftermarket HU. An older JVC (i'll find out the model #). I think it should work fine for now. He won't bother removing the faceplate each time he leaves the vehicle, so let's keep the HU basic and "unattractive".

Let me know your thoughts, opinions, experience, etc. Let's make this bada$$!

Thanks for the help!