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tim if your interested ive got a set of planet audio big bang tweeters currently doing nothing but chillin in the shed.

try heating the epoxy up a tiny bit with a soldering iron.

the wire on those tweeters was hosed pretty much from the factory.

I tried to pick the wire out and it wouldnt come out. I was able to get the black wire out but not the red. Ah well its all good. That head unit is probably the most in depth one I have ever owned. I dont know for sure if it will do that either. It would be nice if it did.

tim

You should be able to pick the wire out of the epoxy on those tweeters and solder a new wire to the terminal.


Something you could consider is using the passive crossovers, or just getting a 3rd small amp to run the tweeters, 3rd amp would give you a better way to level match.

I'm trying to figure out if your head unit has the capability to run tweets on the Front RCAs, and mids on the rear channels and have the right crossovers setup.


If you are going to use another amp you could just get any set of tweeters that suites your needs. If you are using the passives you could probably find some that would work.

[quote="falkenbd"]I thought you had 2 amps in your truck... Are they both sub amps?

If you are giving them head unit power (15 wrms is wishful thinking) all the other steps are kind of pointless. I gave the set 75-120 wrms on the passives when I had them installed. If you were going to actively cross, I think you could put 50 watts on the tweets and 150 on the mids (maybe more if you can exercise restraint)

What head unit do you have? How many channel crossover options are available? You have Front going to the tweeters and rear going to the mids? Honestly all the crossover settings won't matter until you get an amp on the components, lets save that for another day. Just don't cross the tweeters too low and blow them up. Are you not even using the tweeters right now?

If you don't already have one, look for a staggered 4 channel that can do like 150 to the mids and 50 to the tweeters, or something in that ball park. You won't blow the mids if you are good with the gains and don't try to play them too low... (also using your ears is a good idea) Your deck or amp (or an external active crossover) will be needed in this case to set the crossover points.

To be honest, none of the stuff I've been talking about is going to come into play all that much if you are on head unit power. Once you throw an amp on those things, you'll realize what I'm talking about.[/quote]


Okay, im gonna try to answer these in order:

Yep two amps one for subs and one for mids, SM2-1000 for mids and SM1-1500 for subs.

Pioneer Head unit DEH P980-BT
Front and Rear crossover channels. Got the sound faded to the front.
Using the factory tweets, I could only use one of the RF tweets, the other one had the wires cut off and coudnt be replaced.

I got all the wiring ran for the other amp, just aint had time to hook it up. With our schedules and our 3 year old, stereo time is at a premium for me.

thanks for the time,

Tim

I thought you had 2 amps in your truck... Are they both sub amps?

If you are giving them head unit power (15 wrms is wishful thinking) all the other steps are kind of pointless. I gave the set 75-120 wrms on the passives when I had them installed. If you were going to actively cross, I think you could put 50 watts on the tweets and 150 on the mids (maybe more if you can exercise restraint)

What head unit do you have? How many channel crossover options are available? You have Front going to the tweeters and rear going to the mids? Honestly all the crossover settings won't matter until you get an amp on the components, lets save that for another day. Just don't cross the tweeters too low and blow them up. Are you not even using the tweeters right now?

If you don't already have one, look for a staggered 4 channel that can do like 150 to the mids and 50 to the tweeters, or something in that ball park. You won't blow the mids if you are good with the gains and don't try to play them too low... (also using your ears is a good idea) Your deck or amp (or an external active crossover) will be needed in this case to set the crossover points.

To be honest, none of the stuff I've been talking about is going to come into play all that much if you are on head unit power. Once you throw an amp on those things, you'll realize what I'm talking about.

Yeah its cool buddy, no worries. I am gonna redo the door in the spring and add a baffle, I woulda done it in the first place but I got anxious and wanted them put in lol.

ATM the only power they are seeing is the head unit power, probably 15 watts apiece rms. I am using the head units crossover, but I think I will probably try the passive ones out when I redo them.

And since we are on the subject of crossovers, my head unit has 6 12 18 db slope, which would be the best slope to use and why. The crossover slopes I really dont understand. I think the bigger the number the steeper the slope is that right?? I know that is a whole nother topic, but if you could give me some insight on it, it would be helpful. Thanks for your input and help, I really do appreciate all the input and critique whether it is good or bad.

Tim

[quote="loudwagon15s"]welding it in place would prolly be a lot better, but if thats not possible, i'd at least put some high density foam between the existing metal and the new metal[/quote]


butyl rope would be even better. or silicone/rtv sealant. (its removeable and separates the 2 parts quiet will)



Tim, I'm not trying to look down my nose, like you said, you know that.... Trying to be helpful, in the open so maybe everyone here can benefit. Not saying that I know it all, and I'm not saying that your way doesn't work. It works but has its limitations.

Bitching about someone sharing knowledge is pretty counterproductive. Tim knows damn well I'm not here to belittle him. I do like the way the sub box turned out, and its obvious that Tim is capable of doing stuff right. I'm trying to do a little more than just say "good job"... Lets take it to the next level :)



Haven't had a lot of time to come post lately, but here are some of the reasons I am making suggestions.

If the rear wave is allowed to interfere with the front, it can effect tonality. The rear wave can commingle with the front, causing cancellation, which is lowering the output of the affected frequencies. This can lower midbass output, and could even change the sound of a voice or instrument in the music reproducted. This is why I recommend sealed as best as possible the rear wave and front wave by closing up any and all holes. Putting a true sound barrier over the entire inner door skin also can help this (and block road noise)

I used the same mids you have in there (i sold them to you, duh)... There are a couple reasons I recommend baffles. First, its a stamped basket, if the sheet metal isn't perfect, or you aren't very careful screwing them down you could warp them. Second, it helps stop the transfer of energy into the sheet metal of the door. You can get those speakers to image a pretty well, with some tweaking I could get drums to be coming right out of the center of my dash. But the minute something in the door buzzes or rattles, the image goes to shit and the sound is coming out of both doors again. There are other reasons to use a baffle as well, that are in regard to the response of the speaker, don't really have time to get into that right now tho.


How much power are you giving those mids? Using the passive crossovers?

welding it in place would prolly be a lot better, but if thats not possible, i'd at least put some high density foam between the existing metal and the new metal

that aint a bad idea, I like the input i get from you all. thanks for the input and advice and ideas and support and.....LOL

tim