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thebigo wrote:I'm gonna make the box, test it out, then put it in... if i like it it'll stay, if not i'll take it out... hopefully that gets done this weekend... hopefully...

Keep us posted, we like details

Tim

I'm gonna make the box, test it out, then put it in... if i like it it'll stay, if not i'll take it out... hopefully that gets done this weekend... hopefully...

Actually Justin, I think you are pretty close to dead on there.

It reduces standing waves inside the box too right??

A installer once told me "if it sounds good the way it is why mess with it" but that wasn't good enough for me, so I tried it out in a box I made a while back and I liked the sound of it.

Like I said it is up to you.

Tim

Tim wrote:That is another option that is left up to you. I have done both, personally I like the sound of box with polyfil better. It seems to make it more of a tight sound, maybe that is just me though.
In short, I think polyfil makes the sub think it's in a larger box than it actually is. I think that is right, someone will correct me if it aint.
Tim

I believe the formula is one pound of poly fill for every cubic foot would be like increasing the enclosure size by 10%...

So

one cuft enclosure + one pound of poly fill = 1.10 cuft

I have a cold and my head is pounding, so I might be wrong there...

thebigo wrote:...and what about putting polyfil in my box? My last box had it, should I put it in my new box?

That is another option that is left up to you. I have done both, personally I like the sound of box with polyfil better. It seems to make it more of a tight sound, maybe that is just me though.

In short, I think polyfil makes the sub think it's in a larger box than it actually is. I think that is right, someone will correct me if it aint.

Tim

...and what about putting polyfil in my box? My last box had it, should I put it in my new box?

Ok, i drew up a box with a slot port facing the same way as the subs... 40l x 16h x 18d. I've got a 4x14.5 port with a length of 23in. The walls on the inside of the box make an L. Using the box itself as one side of the port, the other side measures 11.75 and the 3.75... How does that sound? I took in account the volume of the subs, braces, and port walls..

that method sounds good in theory but doesn't work nearly as well as the PSP ports there is an algorithm used to get the optimum radius and conical shape there actually pretty mathematically intensive.

if you can't afford flared ports and just want to use pvc, you can easily add a flare to one end by using a metal bowl and a heat gun, and use a roundover router bit to flare the outside of the port
http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/port-flares.htm

OP, I drive a 97 Civic daily and I have about 900W RMS. I have a Kinetik HC1400 under the hood and have never had any issues with electrical power. You will need to upgrade the ground from the battery to the chassis and the ground from engine to chassis as well. I can tell you that the quality of amps you use will make a big difference though. The higher efficiency the amp, the less power you need to push it. So keep that in mind over the watt rating. As for the stock alt, mine is doing fine driving my 900W RMS. As far as subs, you won't be able to find the set I have anymore, but they hit pretty good for a daily driver. I am not a competitor so DBs mean little to my setup. I can say that if you put one side of the back seats down while riding, it is much louder. I have my 2 Kicker s12d 12in in a sealed 1 cu ft box facing the rear of the trunk powered by a MTX Blue Thunder Pro 3002 amp. Yes it is a very old school setup, but it is very clean and still pounds at the same time.