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like bill said, just cut the ends of the 1/0 i sent you to fit. thats how i ahd it and it worked like a charm.

other wise, it'll eventually happen again. did for me until bill told me to call maxx and they pretty much said bigger wire or shorter distance.

just remember the more you play it the more chance you run of damaging your amplifier and the cars electrical system. i would not play it loudly until you have the proper setup. however if you can afford it run up to walmart and get an everstart MAXX they work pretty well for a normal battery and should be a decent improvement over stock.

thanks guys for all ur suggestions and advice. unfortunately that deka battery seems a little to expensive for me at the moment. maybe in two or three weeks ill be able to get it. i still have to buy an alarm. so i gotta a long ways to go with this system. thanks again

no it wouldn't. spending 300 plus on an upgraded alternator isnt needed until the 2000watt range. adding a second battery acts as a buffer and in most cases will eliminate voltage drop as long as its a battery designed for this application. during the slow non bass parts of the song the stock amplifier will be fine charging both battery. however as i said anything over 2000watts and you will be looking at an alternator upgrade.

Also please dont confuse the 300 amp fuse jon spoke about as the fuse for the amp power wire. that should be slightly higher than the fusing on your amp. the fusing on the battery's protects the battery's and keeps the 1/0 from catching on fire.

my reccomendation would be to at minimum upgrade your factory battery to a Deka Intimidator and add another small sealed battery in the rear. as well as adding the big 3 upgrade you should be fine.

Yes, but I also thought that he was planning on adding an additional amp down the road for his front stage, so wouldn't it be beneficial for him to start thinking about the upgrade now... and as Jon pointed out his current alt should only be a 90amp and it will still be a strain on that system.

cargodz wrote:I know it may be harder to work with and doesn't always fit right, but you're system will run much better with the 1/0... You could however use the 4 gauge they sold you for your big 3 upgrade... That with a 200 high output alternator should solve your problems.

i wouldn't go with a high output alternator in this case. a second small battery would be more beneficial and less costly. i only recommend alternators in cases of 2000w and up. with music being dynamic a factory alternator will charge the battery's back up during the lulls in the bass just fine when using under 2k.

You need a minimum of 2 gauge wire for that amp, depending on length of your wire, maybe even 1/0 gauge. Your other issue is that vehicle only has a 90A alternator. That would provide about 1000W of music power. Anything more and you will be running off the stock battery power. Since you have a stock battery that is not designed for audio, it will only help for a split second. Then the voltage will drop way below safe levels (10v or below) and at that point, either the amp will go into protect mode and shut down, or you will start blowing fuses.

That is the bad news. Here is the good news. You can replace your stock under hood battery with a better battery and add a second matching battery in the trunk. The combination will allow you to run off the battery power without running the voltage down into that unsafe level as before.

Recommendation from me (I work for Kinetik) is to replace the stock battery with an HC1400 and place another HC1400 in the rear near your amps. You will need to wire the batteries together using 1/0 gauge wire and use a 300A inline fuse on both ends of that POS+ wire. You should also check the grounding spot you chose for grounding the amp in the rear. You should ground the amp to the back battery, then ground the back battery to the chassis with a 1/0 gauge run. Make sure it is a good solid piece of chassis. Under the hood, upgrade your wire that goes from the stock battery to the chassis with a 1/0 gauge wire as well. Also, make sure that the wire that connects your engine block to the chassis is upgraded to 1/0 gauge as well.

In the future, you may want to consider an alternator upgrade, however it will be expensive and you will have limited options with that type of car. Most small import cars are hard to find a larger alt to replace your stock one.

I know it may be harder to work with and doesn't always fit right, but you're system will run much better with the 1/0... You could however use the 4 gauge they sold you for your big 3 upgrade... That with a 200 high output alternator should solve your problems.

4 ga is to small. That shop sold u bunk, get ur $$$ back.

Dont try to reuse the same ends on the wire. Usually they get all beat up from set screws so its necessary to cut the end off and use fresh copper. If that still doesnt work cutting a bale of strands out is fine asits only effecting that immediate last inch or whatever...

alright then ill stick with the fuse. but im good for now right as long as i dont play it too loud?