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Header Problem

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Topic review
   

Expand view Topic review: Header Problem

by Purple RS » Sat Nov 17, 2007 9:29 am

MobileAudio219 wrote:Check your spark plug wires, make sure none of them are burnt and that they are snapped on all the way... Also might want to make sure you didnt get a couple crossed...
Pull your egr valve and make sure its clean and functions properly...
Its probably something easy that your over looking....
That's exactly what it was. After all the checks and double checks I did, a second set of eyes was all I needed to see my mistake. #2 and #4 wires were crossed, put them on the right plugs and made a world of difference.

by MobileAudio219 » Sat Nov 17, 2007 6:47 am

Check your spark plug wires, make sure none of them are burnt and that they are snapped on all the way... Also might want to make sure you didnt get a couple crossed...

Pull your egr valve and make sure its clean and functions properly...

Its probably something easy that your over looking....

by William from NOLA » Sat Nov 10, 2007 3:13 pm

I would make sure you don't have a DEI system...



(lol joke from a thread I made :) )

by Purple RS » Sat Nov 10, 2007 3:07 pm

Well, decided this isn't an exhaust problem anymore. I have a feeling something else went out as soon as the headers were added. I've been looking at fuel delivery or ignition. Started with ignition because the cap and rotor were shot, so I replaced those. Also replaced the coil with one I had in the garage. Symptoms still persist but now I can get a decent idle, as soon as a load is put on the car (especially on a hill), the motor hesitates and wants to rattle the valves out. I also still get the random pops in the exhaust. Also, it doesn't like any base timing advance, so it's still at the stock 0* for now, and the computer likes to add about 15* at idle.

by cargodz » Sun Nov 04, 2007 2:03 pm

aaron_sk wrote:Now that one I'll give you guys. Hell, most of the cars I've worked on were older than I was. :lgh
I can honestly understand why guys stick with carbs, since that's what they now. But most of my experience has been on older EFI cars, and I preffer it. Easier to work on IMO.
More ease of not working on them if you leave them stock if you ask me :p
I've always been a GM fan myself... with the good ole 350 being my canvas more times than I can count with fingers and socks off :p LOL
It's not to say that I have anything against EFI systems as that's the majority of what I see now... And there is something to be said for a 4cyl. putting out over 300 ponies... New or old a muscle car is a muscle car when it comes to running at the track, but man does it make it easier when you can get by with a standard 49 piece tool kit, vice grips, and a hammer ;)

by aaron_sk » Sun Nov 04, 2007 9:05 am

cargodz wrote:I was building up carburated cars/ trucks before most of you were out of diapers and some even born :p LOL
Now that one I'll give you guys. Hell, most of the cars I've worked on were older than I was. :lgh

I can honestly understand why guys stick with carbs, since that's what they now. But most of my experience has been on older EFI cars, and I preffer it. Easier to work on IMO.

by smoker » Sun Nov 04, 2007 5:39 am

no one mentioned huge engines, im a ford guy at heart and any windsor based block will do, 302 or 351.....both small blocks, both capable of real power without any nos or blowers or anything, both streetable when built, the last 302 i built went 11.4 on motor alone, not a real radical build but still very quick for a street car. i know you can make just about anything run mid 11 second times but not on the money i did it with, it was a junkyard motor to start with and a 85 mustang 4 cyl car with not motor or trans to start with. i had 2 or 3k in the entire car including body work by the time it was done.

by cargodz » Sun Nov 04, 2007 4:48 am

aaron_sk wrote:I can appreciate the old-school idea of a huge engine and a huge carb, but those days are long gone. I personally don't want to own a car I cant drive on a regular basis, or one that can't start below 45 degrees, or one with such a choppy cam you can't idle.
Now that's funny :rolleyes:
I guess as the ultimate old schooler here I gotta jump in on this one since I was building up carburated cars/ trucks before most of you were out of diapers and some even born :p LOL
So what you think we didn't drive anywhere during winter back in the old'n days when it got really cold... Heck my 78 Blazer I had (last carburated owned vehicle) was the only one that would start one year when it dropped to 30 below 0 with wind chills of -50-60... Don't get me wrong... there is pros and cons to both, but ya gotta love a vehicle that has a motor anybody can tear down and rebuild in a weekend.

Oh by the way... one more thing that may lead to your problem that I recently thought of... (and yes it has to do with the O2 sensor too)... If your new headers are thicker and larger diameter then you may not have the proper depth for the O2 to get a proper reading... I thought of this cause we encountered this problem on a truck a couple years ago... guess that's one of the downfalls of getting older, it takes me longer to remember stuff :p LOL

by Purple RS » Sat Nov 03, 2007 8:11 pm

That's where mine is too, and the non-heated ones don't seem to be doing anything for me.

by aaron_sk » Sat Nov 03, 2007 8:07 pm

Mine is just before the Y-pipe flange, yeah. If you don't mind throwing money at it, you can buy a new non-heated O2 for $25 at Schucks, or a heated one from TPIParts for $75.

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